Hinges, thank goodness, are relatively simple items. With a few handyman's tools, you could be replacing them before you know it. The existing hinge just has to be unscrewed and taken off to leave the way clear for the new hinge to be screwed on. Then take your door, window, lid or whatever and connect it back to where it came from.
Having said this, and to avoid grief and misery (like having to get back in the car, drive back to the store, dig out the receipt and start over), you do need to know an important fact. You need to know if the hinge that you require is left-handed or right-handed. Without this important information, you are doomed to a guessing game with a 50% chance of losing or winning, but really, more of losing.
So how, on a practical level, do you find out if you need to buy left-handed or right-handed hinges? Listen up. Go to the door, window or lid and grab the handle. Open the door (or window, or lid). If you grabbed the handle with your left hand and the door opened, either towards you or away from you, then you are dealing with a left-handed hinge. Note this down carefully; left-handed hinge.
However, if you grabbed the handle with your right hand and still managed to open the door, window or lid, then you are face to face with a right-handed hinge. In this case, put a line through left-handed hinge. Write "right-handed hinge".
You are now ahead of the hinge game. If you want to learn even more about these items, you can use Internet search engines to dig up fascinating and little known facts on hinges. An example of such facts concerns the butt hinge. Not only does the butt hinge exist (really), but it is also available in two different varieties, the fixed pin version and the loose pin version. Beware of the trap that is so innocently being sprung before you. The fixed pin butt hinge means that you cannot remove the pin. The loose pin butt hinge means that you can remove the pin.
So if your idea of a good time is to repeatedly take a door off of its hinges before putting it back in place, then the loose pin butt hinge may be the ideal companion for you.
Other types of hinges include the knuckle hinge. Its advantages are that it is both strong and decorative. It makes a good hinge for an outside door which is typically heavier than an inside door. In addition to this it gives your outside door pizzazz and makes the neighbors gawk.
Spring-loaded ones will keep your doors (windows, lids, etc.) shut. This will give your doors a mind of their own and keep next door's cat out of your kitchen. Remember that some of them have almost become fashion accessories, at least within a house. Select each hinge with care, so as to match color, material and function with doors and decoration.
Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops that offer both products and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make your space both functional and beautiful. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous indoor area by charming cabinet hinges, handsome door hinges and strong hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
Monday, May 19, 2008
7 Common Plumbing Problems
7 Common Plumbing Problems and Fixes:
Many homes, even brand new homes, can have plumbing problems. However, instead of getting a plumber involved, it is possible to fix many of these plumbing problems without professional help. Here are seven common plumbing problems, as well as how to fix them:
Lack of hot water Plumbing problems related to water temperature always lead to your water heater. You might be able to turn up the thermostat on your water heater. However, your water heater may be clogged with calcium deposits, which limits the amount of hot water it can produce. In this event, it is possible to remove these deposits from most water heaters. Replacing the heating elements is can also restore hot water to your home. Another possibility is that the water heater is beyond repair and must be replaced.
Leaky faucet A leaky faucet is one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix. The source of the leak is usually a bad seal in the faucet handle. Simply disassemble the faucet, replace the worn out part (usually a rubber gasket), and put it back together.
Clogged Toilet A clogged toilet is among the list of common but easily solved, plumbing problems. Most clogged toilets can be fixed by plunging. However, if plunging the toilet does not alleviate the clog, serious plumbing problems could be the cause.
Toilet Does Not Flush Everything If your toilet is not clogged, but does not flush everything, there may not be enough water to carry everything away. In the tank behind the toilet bowl, there is a float that controls how much water is used. Making the float sit higher so that more water is used should cure plumbing problems related to a weak flush.
Slow Draining Sinks Most home remedies for slow draining sinks involve pouring some kind of solution down the drain to loosen deposits that slow the flow of water. Remedies for these plumbing problems include solutions from store bought drain cleaners to bleach or hot vinegar. Another way to solve and prevent these types of plumbing problems is to fill all the sinks with water and drain them all at once. The pressure caused by this volume of water can help push deposits out of your pipes.
Pipes under the Sink Leak Before you tackle these plumbing problems, make sure the fixture with the leak is not clogged. If there is no clog, find the source of the leak. In the event that the leak is coming from the juncture of two pipes, try to tighten it. If this does not work, take the leaky section apart and check for stripped or damaged threads. Replacing a damaged part may be necessary, but wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will eliminate most leaky joints. However, if there is a crack in a pipe or appliance component, replacement is usually the only option.
Toilet Leaks from the Base A toilet leak, if it is in fact coming from the base, can usually be fixed by replacing the wax ring that fits between the toilet and the floor. This can be relatively simply to do, unless the floor is uneven or something else prevents solid contact between the toilet and the wax ring.
Dealing with Common Plumbing Problems Although fixing plumbing problems is not usually fun, you can save yourself a lot of money by not calling a plumber. Even if you do decide to get a plumber involved, diagnosing the problem can shorten the process and ensure that a plumber does not try to fix anything that is not broken.
Written by Henry James. For information on finding a licensed and experienced Melbourne plumber, please visit http://www.melbourneplumber.com.au/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_James
Many homes, even brand new homes, can have plumbing problems. However, instead of getting a plumber involved, it is possible to fix many of these plumbing problems without professional help. Here are seven common plumbing problems, as well as how to fix them:
Lack of hot water Plumbing problems related to water temperature always lead to your water heater. You might be able to turn up the thermostat on your water heater. However, your water heater may be clogged with calcium deposits, which limits the amount of hot water it can produce. In this event, it is possible to remove these deposits from most water heaters. Replacing the heating elements is can also restore hot water to your home. Another possibility is that the water heater is beyond repair and must be replaced.
Leaky faucet A leaky faucet is one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix. The source of the leak is usually a bad seal in the faucet handle. Simply disassemble the faucet, replace the worn out part (usually a rubber gasket), and put it back together.
Clogged Toilet A clogged toilet is among the list of common but easily solved, plumbing problems. Most clogged toilets can be fixed by plunging. However, if plunging the toilet does not alleviate the clog, serious plumbing problems could be the cause.
Toilet Does Not Flush Everything If your toilet is not clogged, but does not flush everything, there may not be enough water to carry everything away. In the tank behind the toilet bowl, there is a float that controls how much water is used. Making the float sit higher so that more water is used should cure plumbing problems related to a weak flush.
Slow Draining Sinks Most home remedies for slow draining sinks involve pouring some kind of solution down the drain to loosen deposits that slow the flow of water. Remedies for these plumbing problems include solutions from store bought drain cleaners to bleach or hot vinegar. Another way to solve and prevent these types of plumbing problems is to fill all the sinks with water and drain them all at once. The pressure caused by this volume of water can help push deposits out of your pipes.
Pipes under the Sink Leak Before you tackle these plumbing problems, make sure the fixture with the leak is not clogged. If there is no clog, find the source of the leak. In the event that the leak is coming from the juncture of two pipes, try to tighten it. If this does not work, take the leaky section apart and check for stripped or damaged threads. Replacing a damaged part may be necessary, but wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will eliminate most leaky joints. However, if there is a crack in a pipe or appliance component, replacement is usually the only option.
Toilet Leaks from the Base A toilet leak, if it is in fact coming from the base, can usually be fixed by replacing the wax ring that fits between the toilet and the floor. This can be relatively simply to do, unless the floor is uneven or something else prevents solid contact between the toilet and the wax ring.
Dealing with Common Plumbing Problems Although fixing plumbing problems is not usually fun, you can save yourself a lot of money by not calling a plumber. Even if you do decide to get a plumber involved, diagnosing the problem can shorten the process and ensure that a plumber does not try to fix anything that is not broken.
Written by Henry James. For information on finding a licensed and experienced Melbourne plumber, please visit http://www.melbourneplumber.com.au/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_James
Top 10 Home Improvement Mistakes
Great Article! Really informative, being in the business see these things everyday.
Although a major home improvement can prove to be a rewarding project, it can also turn your life upside down if you are not prepared. I've heard of some worst case scenarios involving people who have lost their homes because they got in over their heads and others who ended up with incomplete project nightmares that cost them thousands of dollars to correct.
Following is a list of the top ten mistakes homeowners make when undertaking home improvement projects and tips on how to avoid them:
1. References. Do enough research and background checking to satisfy you. Walk away if the contractor is not willing to provide references from former clients. Do an online search of the contractor's business and personal name. Check with local courts for judgments filed against them and with the Better Business Bureau for any consumer complaints. Look at previous work completed (in person). Check with material suppliers since a good contractor will have a long-standing relationship with suppliers. Contact other contractors who have worked with them before. Check their credit standing - contractors with bad credit are often disorganized and don't manage their business well. Inquire about insurance, workers compensation and licensing.
2. Project management. You need one person to help you manage your project. Most issues occur when inexperienced homeowners try to manage their own project. A project manager is a single point of contact between the homeowner and other contractors and is responsible for scheduling and workflow.
3. Contracts. Make sure your contract is solid. As obvious as this may sound, failure to get a contract or signing an incomplete contract is one of the most common mistakes. Put all the details in writing - never take someone's word for it. Following are items that should be included in the contract: (1) the full name of the company and the person you are doing business with and their contact information, (2) an addendum consisting of the complete set of plans, (3) an addendum consisting of the materials to be used, (4) the price of the goods or services, (5) the manner and terms of payment, (6) a description of the work to be performed, (7) a start date and an estimated completion date, (8) a default clause in the event either party defaults that specifies how damages will be calculated, (9) warranties and (10) signatures.
4. Warranties. Make sure you receive a warranty with detailed terms and conditions. Don't accept a contract that simply states that all work is guaranteed. There is often confusion as to who is responsible for the warranty. Get the following in writing: (1) Who is backing the warranty? (2) What is covered and what is not covered? (3) How long is the warranty valid for? (4) What can void the warranty? (5) What is the process for placing a warranty claim?
5. Changes. During the project, you may change your mind on certain design aspects which may require more or less work from contractors. It is critical to document every change order and note the exact cost or savings. Changes should be signed and dated by all parties.
6. Plans. Get a clear description on what will be done, how it will be done and the materials to be used. For smaller projects, contractors can draw up plans. For larger and more complicated projects, find a qualified designer or architect. And, for example, if load-bearing walls will be altered, find an engineer to review the structural side of the plans.
7. Costs. Estimating costs tends to be a big problem because people do not make realistic comparisons. Homeowners may hire the contractor with the lowest price but that price may turn out to be much higher in the end. "Allowance items" tend to be the main culprit in estimating costs. For example, contractors may give you allowances for flooring, lighting or hardware that are artificially low. The bid looks enticing until you examine it closely. Request a line item for straight costs on materials and labor since some contractors mark up materials and labor so they can make a profit on it. Ask the contractor to pass along costs to you and to add a line item for their fee. This creates a more clear and honest assessment of the job.
8. Financing and payments. Before signing the contract, figure out how you are going to pay for your home improvement project. Make sure you maintain control of the money - don't let your project manager or contractor control the money. This sounds obvious but many homeowners allow contractors to make draws on construction accounts only to realize that the draws were not used for the intended purpose. What does this mean? It means your contractor scored a new truck, you're out of money and the project is incomplete. Tips: (1) don't pay a lot of money up front, (2) pay when materials are delivered, (3) pay when work begins and (4) pay as work progresses. Pay only after work and materials are inspected and approved.
9. Inspections. Don't wait until your home improvement project is almost complete to do the inspection. Plan phased inspections along the way so work doesn't need to be re-done. Don't rely on city and county building inspectors to protect you since the codes they enforce don't guarantee quality (and they often miss things too!). Before paying for work, hire an independent inspector to do periodic phase inspections.
10. Materials. Stick with products that are tried and true. This rule especially holds true when it comes to windows, doors, framing materials, roofing products, concrete coverings, epoxy floors, plumbing, light fixtures and electronics. You don't want to be the guinea pig that test runs the supposed latest and greatest new products or materials only to find out that these items don't last or turn out to be fire hazards!
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com. At http://www.myguidesusa.com/, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com.
Find home improvement tips and resources at http://homeimprovement.myguidesusa.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hilary_Basile
Although a major home improvement can prove to be a rewarding project, it can also turn your life upside down if you are not prepared. I've heard of some worst case scenarios involving people who have lost their homes because they got in over their heads and others who ended up with incomplete project nightmares that cost them thousands of dollars to correct.
Following is a list of the top ten mistakes homeowners make when undertaking home improvement projects and tips on how to avoid them:
1. References. Do enough research and background checking to satisfy you. Walk away if the contractor is not willing to provide references from former clients. Do an online search of the contractor's business and personal name. Check with local courts for judgments filed against them and with the Better Business Bureau for any consumer complaints. Look at previous work completed (in person). Check with material suppliers since a good contractor will have a long-standing relationship with suppliers. Contact other contractors who have worked with them before. Check their credit standing - contractors with bad credit are often disorganized and don't manage their business well. Inquire about insurance, workers compensation and licensing.
2. Project management. You need one person to help you manage your project. Most issues occur when inexperienced homeowners try to manage their own project. A project manager is a single point of contact between the homeowner and other contractors and is responsible for scheduling and workflow.
3. Contracts. Make sure your contract is solid. As obvious as this may sound, failure to get a contract or signing an incomplete contract is one of the most common mistakes. Put all the details in writing - never take someone's word for it. Following are items that should be included in the contract: (1) the full name of the company and the person you are doing business with and their contact information, (2) an addendum consisting of the complete set of plans, (3) an addendum consisting of the materials to be used, (4) the price of the goods or services, (5) the manner and terms of payment, (6) a description of the work to be performed, (7) a start date and an estimated completion date, (8) a default clause in the event either party defaults that specifies how damages will be calculated, (9) warranties and (10) signatures.
4. Warranties. Make sure you receive a warranty with detailed terms and conditions. Don't accept a contract that simply states that all work is guaranteed. There is often confusion as to who is responsible for the warranty. Get the following in writing: (1) Who is backing the warranty? (2) What is covered and what is not covered? (3) How long is the warranty valid for? (4) What can void the warranty? (5) What is the process for placing a warranty claim?
5. Changes. During the project, you may change your mind on certain design aspects which may require more or less work from contractors. It is critical to document every change order and note the exact cost or savings. Changes should be signed and dated by all parties.
6. Plans. Get a clear description on what will be done, how it will be done and the materials to be used. For smaller projects, contractors can draw up plans. For larger and more complicated projects, find a qualified designer or architect. And, for example, if load-bearing walls will be altered, find an engineer to review the structural side of the plans.
7. Costs. Estimating costs tends to be a big problem because people do not make realistic comparisons. Homeowners may hire the contractor with the lowest price but that price may turn out to be much higher in the end. "Allowance items" tend to be the main culprit in estimating costs. For example, contractors may give you allowances for flooring, lighting or hardware that are artificially low. The bid looks enticing until you examine it closely. Request a line item for straight costs on materials and labor since some contractors mark up materials and labor so they can make a profit on it. Ask the contractor to pass along costs to you and to add a line item for their fee. This creates a more clear and honest assessment of the job.
8. Financing and payments. Before signing the contract, figure out how you are going to pay for your home improvement project. Make sure you maintain control of the money - don't let your project manager or contractor control the money. This sounds obvious but many homeowners allow contractors to make draws on construction accounts only to realize that the draws were not used for the intended purpose. What does this mean? It means your contractor scored a new truck, you're out of money and the project is incomplete. Tips: (1) don't pay a lot of money up front, (2) pay when materials are delivered, (3) pay when work begins and (4) pay as work progresses. Pay only after work and materials are inspected and approved.
9. Inspections. Don't wait until your home improvement project is almost complete to do the inspection. Plan phased inspections along the way so work doesn't need to be re-done. Don't rely on city and county building inspectors to protect you since the codes they enforce don't guarantee quality (and they often miss things too!). Before paying for work, hire an independent inspector to do periodic phase inspections.
10. Materials. Stick with products that are tried and true. This rule especially holds true when it comes to windows, doors, framing materials, roofing products, concrete coverings, epoxy floors, plumbing, light fixtures and electronics. You don't want to be the guinea pig that test runs the supposed latest and greatest new products or materials only to find out that these items don't last or turn out to be fire hazards!
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com. At http://www.myguidesusa.com/, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com.
Find home improvement tips and resources at http://homeimprovement.myguidesusa.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hilary_Basile
Check out The Tip of the Day!
I've added a Tip of the day to My Blog so you can stay informed and be able to "show off"
to your friends the little Tips & Tricks that I'll be bringing you.
So keep your eye out for it!
to your friends the little Tips & Tricks that I'll be bringing you.
So keep your eye out for it!
Laying Ceramic Tile
A Great Article for the DIY'ers In us all. Great Project!
Raring to start working on your own ceramic floor tile project? Get ready to learn the basics of how to lay ceramic floor tile right here and make that beautiful ceramic tile floor that you and your family have always wanted! So, get your tiling tools ready, put on your safety goggles and let's do some tiling!
Most tiling jobs start with a well-prepared subfloor. As you learn more about how to lay ceramic floor tile, you will find out about the three general types of floors that tile installers may often work with. Such information will help you alot along the way.
Generally, you will encounter three types of subfloors: Vinyl, plywood, and the concrete floors. Installing ceramic tile directly to vinyl or linoleum floors (or subfloor surfaces) should be avoided at all cost. Your vinyl or linoleum flooring may contain asbestos fibers and should be tested first before you try removing it. If your vinyl floor covering does not contain asbestos fibers, a general recommendation on how to lay ceramic floor tile is to rough-sand, or scarify, the vinyl floor surface to provide your tiling mortar a better grip. Use a latex modified thinset mortar to install your ceramic tiles over your vinyl subfloor.
Working over plywood subfloors can be very tricky, as well. Like vinyl floor surfaces, it is not advisable to install your ceramic tiles directly on to your plywood floor surface. Plywood flooring usually has a smooth surface, and easily warps when exposed to heat or moisture. Be sure that the wood is at least 1 and 1/8 inches thick and is reinforced and supported by an equally strong underlayment. Otherwise, your ceramic tiles will dislodge easily, or worse, break and need replacing. Plywood panel edges must be installed about one-fourth of an inch away from perimeter walls and door jambs, and fixtures and cabinetry. These are expansion gaps and should not be bridged with tiling mortar. To prevent moisture from damaging the plywood subfloor, use a waterproofing sealant or caulk over your plywood subsurface.
Concrete floors are the most ideal subfloor surface to work with. But before you start tiling over the subfloor surface, it must be cleaned thoroughly. Paint, adhesives, fillers or levelers, sealers, and chemically treated cement substrates are unsuitable surfaces fpr ceramic tile installations. Remove these by using non-chemical methods. For dust and other debris, sweep and then mop your concrete subfloor surface using only clean water. Allow the surface completely before you start working on it. Generally, smooth concrete surfaces are difficult to work with as the tiling mortar may not grip and hold. Consequently, your ceramic floor tiles may be in danger in dislodging. Smooth concrete surfaces must be rough sanded, scarified, or etched to allow the tiling mortar some grip.
Another important aspect about how to lay ceramic floor tile is to always check for cracks and debris. Repair as many of the cracks as you can. If you see cracks that are too large to repair, replace the floor section where they are found with new concrete. Concrete may need to set (or dry) for at least twenty-four hours before you can start tiling over it. Lastly, get out your carpenter's level and check for any dips or humps on the concrete subfloor surface. If you find any, you may use a cement-based floor level to fill in the dips and smoothen over the humps. This will help to keep your finished ceramic tile floor level and minimize dislodging, or tile breakage.
Let it dry or set properly. This is the key step you need to keep in mind about how to lay ceramic floor tile flooring. There are three setting periods: The first is right after you have placed your ceramic tiles with thin set mortar and bonded them to your subfloor. The second is after after putting in your tiling grout (before putting on the sealant). These setting periods last overnight, at the very least, to twenty-four hours, at the most. Your sealant has dried, you are done!
So when you work on your own ceramic tile project, always remember how to lay ceramic floor tile properly by knowing how to work with your subfloor surfaces. Learning how to lay ceramic floor tile is also both a great way both to learn a new hobby, and a home improvement skill. Just remember to keep a safe working environment, not to rush things (especially during setting periods), and try to work with at buddy. Better yet, get your friends over and help.
Learn how to lay ceramic floor tile on your bathroom or kitchen. Get your ceramic tile installation instructions online.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rashel_Dan
Raring to start working on your own ceramic floor tile project? Get ready to learn the basics of how to lay ceramic floor tile right here and make that beautiful ceramic tile floor that you and your family have always wanted! So, get your tiling tools ready, put on your safety goggles and let's do some tiling!
Most tiling jobs start with a well-prepared subfloor. As you learn more about how to lay ceramic floor tile, you will find out about the three general types of floors that tile installers may often work with. Such information will help you alot along the way.
Generally, you will encounter three types of subfloors: Vinyl, plywood, and the concrete floors. Installing ceramic tile directly to vinyl or linoleum floors (or subfloor surfaces) should be avoided at all cost. Your vinyl or linoleum flooring may contain asbestos fibers and should be tested first before you try removing it. If your vinyl floor covering does not contain asbestos fibers, a general recommendation on how to lay ceramic floor tile is to rough-sand, or scarify, the vinyl floor surface to provide your tiling mortar a better grip. Use a latex modified thinset mortar to install your ceramic tiles over your vinyl subfloor.
Working over plywood subfloors can be very tricky, as well. Like vinyl floor surfaces, it is not advisable to install your ceramic tiles directly on to your plywood floor surface. Plywood flooring usually has a smooth surface, and easily warps when exposed to heat or moisture. Be sure that the wood is at least 1 and 1/8 inches thick and is reinforced and supported by an equally strong underlayment. Otherwise, your ceramic tiles will dislodge easily, or worse, break and need replacing. Plywood panel edges must be installed about one-fourth of an inch away from perimeter walls and door jambs, and fixtures and cabinetry. These are expansion gaps and should not be bridged with tiling mortar. To prevent moisture from damaging the plywood subfloor, use a waterproofing sealant or caulk over your plywood subsurface.
Concrete floors are the most ideal subfloor surface to work with. But before you start tiling over the subfloor surface, it must be cleaned thoroughly. Paint, adhesives, fillers or levelers, sealers, and chemically treated cement substrates are unsuitable surfaces fpr ceramic tile installations. Remove these by using non-chemical methods. For dust and other debris, sweep and then mop your concrete subfloor surface using only clean water. Allow the surface completely before you start working on it. Generally, smooth concrete surfaces are difficult to work with as the tiling mortar may not grip and hold. Consequently, your ceramic floor tiles may be in danger in dislodging. Smooth concrete surfaces must be rough sanded, scarified, or etched to allow the tiling mortar some grip.
Another important aspect about how to lay ceramic floor tile is to always check for cracks and debris. Repair as many of the cracks as you can. If you see cracks that are too large to repair, replace the floor section where they are found with new concrete. Concrete may need to set (or dry) for at least twenty-four hours before you can start tiling over it. Lastly, get out your carpenter's level and check for any dips or humps on the concrete subfloor surface. If you find any, you may use a cement-based floor level to fill in the dips and smoothen over the humps. This will help to keep your finished ceramic tile floor level and minimize dislodging, or tile breakage.
Let it dry or set properly. This is the key step you need to keep in mind about how to lay ceramic floor tile flooring. There are three setting periods: The first is right after you have placed your ceramic tiles with thin set mortar and bonded them to your subfloor. The second is after after putting in your tiling grout (before putting on the sealant). These setting periods last overnight, at the very least, to twenty-four hours, at the most. Your sealant has dried, you are done!
So when you work on your own ceramic tile project, always remember how to lay ceramic floor tile properly by knowing how to work with your subfloor surfaces. Learning how to lay ceramic floor tile is also both a great way both to learn a new hobby, and a home improvement skill. Just remember to keep a safe working environment, not to rush things (especially during setting periods), and try to work with at buddy. Better yet, get your friends over and help.
Learn how to lay ceramic floor tile on your bathroom or kitchen. Get your ceramic tile installation instructions online.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rashel_Dan
Replace your old Window Screen
We've all had window screens with hole in them from timt to time,in this artice we show you how to Fix that problem
Window screens are very important in many countries in the world, these are required to make the rooms comfortable. They are used to prevent any pests entering the house whilst still allowing fresh air inside. The very uses for window screens mean that they are delicate and easily get damaged. Pets can make light work out of window screening! It's always a good idea to keep some spare screening material around just in case you have to make some last minute repairs.
Replacing screens is actually quite easy, it's certainly within the skills of most people. It is defiantly easy to do these projects by yourself without requiring any specialist help, you will require certain types of equipment, including:
New screening material or patches to repair your existing screensScissorsCementKnifeScreen rolling toolSet squareStock to stretch screeningStaplerWood puttyBrads
If there is a small hole which has affected your window screen then it may be possible to repair the holes. Repairs are possible if the hole is less than 3" wide. If your screen is plastic then you probably won't be able to patch it and it should be replaced. Metal screens are the easiest ones to patch. There are many places online where you should be able to find tips on how to choose replacement windows if a patch is not possible.
You should start by measuring the sizes of the holes and cutting out patches. These should be around half an inch bigger than the hole itself. If the holes are very big then you may require to replace the whole screen.
It's very easy to patch a screen, first you need to pick some of the strands of the patch apart, and then weave these threads into the screen until it is firmly in place. It's normally possible to bend these strands of screening by hand, but you may need to use some tools. If you're patching a plastic panel then you will need to use some cement to hold it in place.
Screen Replacement
It can be quite difficult to replace screens if they are in wooden or metal frames. You need different processes in either case, we'll look at metal framed windows first.
Metal frame
You should start by removing the rubber weatherproofing from the old screen, if it looks in reasonable condition then keep it. Otherwise you will need to replace it.
Remove the old screen, you may want to save some of the screen for future repairs. Cut the new screen using the old piece of screening as a template.
Use a screen rolling tool to tighten the screen so that it is held firmly in place. Tighten all around the screen.
It might be difficult, but you could use the spreader to support the screen while installing it. When you have fitted the screen cut off any excess material with a craft knife.
Fit the screen back into your window and enjoy!
Replace screening in a wood frame
It can be more difficult to replace the screening in a wooden frame because you need to staple it to the frame.
You should be very careful not to break the frame when prizing it out from the window. Use a piece of wood to wedge and work the frame out.
The screening needs to be stapled along the top edge of the frame. Use wooden wedges to tighten the screen.
Cut off the excess screening and fill any holes with wood putty.
Linden Walhard very often pens informative papers on news associated with choosing replacement window. With his writings on choose a replacement window and tips on choosing replacement window the writer demonstrated his capability in the area.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linden_A._Walhard
Window screens are very important in many countries in the world, these are required to make the rooms comfortable. They are used to prevent any pests entering the house whilst still allowing fresh air inside. The very uses for window screens mean that they are delicate and easily get damaged. Pets can make light work out of window screening! It's always a good idea to keep some spare screening material around just in case you have to make some last minute repairs.
Replacing screens is actually quite easy, it's certainly within the skills of most people. It is defiantly easy to do these projects by yourself without requiring any specialist help, you will require certain types of equipment, including:
New screening material or patches to repair your existing screensScissorsCementKnifeScreen rolling toolSet squareStock to stretch screeningStaplerWood puttyBrads
If there is a small hole which has affected your window screen then it may be possible to repair the holes. Repairs are possible if the hole is less than 3" wide. If your screen is plastic then you probably won't be able to patch it and it should be replaced. Metal screens are the easiest ones to patch. There are many places online where you should be able to find tips on how to choose replacement windows if a patch is not possible.
You should start by measuring the sizes of the holes and cutting out patches. These should be around half an inch bigger than the hole itself. If the holes are very big then you may require to replace the whole screen.
It's very easy to patch a screen, first you need to pick some of the strands of the patch apart, and then weave these threads into the screen until it is firmly in place. It's normally possible to bend these strands of screening by hand, but you may need to use some tools. If you're patching a plastic panel then you will need to use some cement to hold it in place.
Screen Replacement
It can be quite difficult to replace screens if they are in wooden or metal frames. You need different processes in either case, we'll look at metal framed windows first.
Metal frame
You should start by removing the rubber weatherproofing from the old screen, if it looks in reasonable condition then keep it. Otherwise you will need to replace it.
Remove the old screen, you may want to save some of the screen for future repairs. Cut the new screen using the old piece of screening as a template.
Use a screen rolling tool to tighten the screen so that it is held firmly in place. Tighten all around the screen.
It might be difficult, but you could use the spreader to support the screen while installing it. When you have fitted the screen cut off any excess material with a craft knife.
Fit the screen back into your window and enjoy!
Replace screening in a wood frame
It can be more difficult to replace the screening in a wooden frame because you need to staple it to the frame.
You should be very careful not to break the frame when prizing it out from the window. Use a piece of wood to wedge and work the frame out.
The screening needs to be stapled along the top edge of the frame. Use wooden wedges to tighten the screen.
Cut off the excess screening and fill any holes with wood putty.
Linden Walhard very often pens informative papers on news associated with choosing replacement window. With his writings on choose a replacement window and tips on choosing replacement window the writer demonstrated his capability in the area.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linden_A._Walhard
Painting Your House
This is a Great Article that I found that explains a lot of what I was talking about in my previous blog:
The quickest way to change the looks of your house? Paint it. In your eagerness, though, make sure you do the job right.
Prepare the wall or ceiling properly.
Scrape off flaking paint and smooth the edges with sandpaper. Check for moisture problems - the signal is paint that flakes off in under two years. In this case, you may need a carpenter or roofer to fix the problem.
Wash the surface - with a hose, power washer, or elbow grease. A solution of TSP (trisodium phosphate) and water will remove grease that keeps paint from adhering. (Use rubber gloves).
Fill the nail holes, cracks, and other imperfections. Use the right spackle or putty - exterior for exterior walls, interior for interior walls. Wet the putty knife before putting it in the putty.
After the puttied areas have dried, sand and paint them with a primer coat. Also sand and prime all surfaces covered with slick paint like enamel. Wear a mask while you do it. Dust woodwork with tack cloth.
Caulk window and woodwork joints.
Cover stains, particularly mildew, with a special sealer. If people smoke in your house, prime the ceiling with a stain killer.
Move the furniture out of the room, or group it in the center and cover it with a drop cloth.
Take off striker plats, doorknobs, and other objects you don't want painted.
Now you can start painting:
Prime the surfaces, usually with primer paint. Otherwise you may have to paint the surface an extra time.
Use the right-sized brush-you need three for most jobs: 1-inch to 11/2-inch trim brush, 2-inch to 21/2-inch sash brush, and a 4-inch wall brush. Don't use natural bristle paintbrushes with latex or water-based paint; use one with synthetic bristles instead. If you use a roller, buy a cover with the right nap for the job-the smoother the surface, the shorter the nap.
Paint a room in this order: ceiling, walls, trim, doors, windows. Paint the exterior of a house one side at a time.
Don't use too much paint on your brush or roller. Dip brushes only about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint, and don't fill the paint pan for roller painting more than ½ inch deep.
Be neat. Take your time. Every spill and drip is more trouble than the time you saved by being sloppy.
With a roller, go over the area already painted with up and down strokes.
Paint safely. Make sure you have a secure ladder. Don't lean over too far-it's better to move the ladder than break your head.
KiyaSama is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kiya_Sama
The quickest way to change the looks of your house? Paint it. In your eagerness, though, make sure you do the job right.
Prepare the wall or ceiling properly.
Scrape off flaking paint and smooth the edges with sandpaper. Check for moisture problems - the signal is paint that flakes off in under two years. In this case, you may need a carpenter or roofer to fix the problem.
Wash the surface - with a hose, power washer, or elbow grease. A solution of TSP (trisodium phosphate) and water will remove grease that keeps paint from adhering. (Use rubber gloves).
Fill the nail holes, cracks, and other imperfections. Use the right spackle or putty - exterior for exterior walls, interior for interior walls. Wet the putty knife before putting it in the putty.
After the puttied areas have dried, sand and paint them with a primer coat. Also sand and prime all surfaces covered with slick paint like enamel. Wear a mask while you do it. Dust woodwork with tack cloth.
Caulk window and woodwork joints.
Cover stains, particularly mildew, with a special sealer. If people smoke in your house, prime the ceiling with a stain killer.
Move the furniture out of the room, or group it in the center and cover it with a drop cloth.
Take off striker plats, doorknobs, and other objects you don't want painted.
Now you can start painting:
Prime the surfaces, usually with primer paint. Otherwise you may have to paint the surface an extra time.
Use the right-sized brush-you need three for most jobs: 1-inch to 11/2-inch trim brush, 2-inch to 21/2-inch sash brush, and a 4-inch wall brush. Don't use natural bristle paintbrushes with latex or water-based paint; use one with synthetic bristles instead. If you use a roller, buy a cover with the right nap for the job-the smoother the surface, the shorter the nap.
Paint a room in this order: ceiling, walls, trim, doors, windows. Paint the exterior of a house one side at a time.
Don't use too much paint on your brush or roller. Dip brushes only about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint, and don't fill the paint pan for roller painting more than ½ inch deep.
Be neat. Take your time. Every spill and drip is more trouble than the time you saved by being sloppy.
With a roller, go over the area already painted with up and down strokes.
Paint safely. Make sure you have a secure ladder. Don't lean over too far-it's better to move the ladder than break your head.
KiyaSama is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kiya_Sama
Getting Started Painting
Since I am a House Painter by trade I will be giving frequent advice in my columns about Painting.
I first have to say that painting is not Rocket Science it's just a lot of preporation and hard work but when it's done right ,anyone can produce a "Quality Paint Job."We'll run through the steps in my next blog,also I'll explain the tools and preporation steps that you need to get the job done!
I first have to say that painting is not Rocket Science it's just a lot of preporation and hard work but when it's done right ,anyone can produce a "Quality Paint Job."We'll run through the steps in my next blog,also I'll explain the tools and preporation steps that you need to get the job done!
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Replacing Door Hinges
Here is some great advice on a common installation:
Whether it's because your door is old and no longer works with your décor, or you want something a little more flashy in the space, trading out doors and door hinges is not too difficult of a job.
Don't think you can do it? Think you need a lot of tools to get the job done? Think again. All you need is a few shims, or thin pieces of wood that can be slipped under the door to hold it at the right height, nails or an electric screwdriver and the door and door hinges.
Here are the steps for taking on the installation process.
Selecting the what you need is easy. Measure the old door that you are taking out of this space and write those measurements down. When it comes to selecting door hinges, consider what this door will be asked to do. If the door is going to get a lot of use you may want to use three 3-inch door hinges to make sure it's sturdy and will hold in place. This is especially the case if it is an exterior door. One way to tell what kind of door hinges to choose is to look at what was being used on the door you are removing.
The easy way to install the door and door hinges is to install the new door hinges where the old ones were. This only works if you selected the same size door hinges as you previously had on the door with proper hole-spacing. If not, you may have to use some wood putty to fill the old holes, and then put the new hinges wherever you would like.
When deciding where the door hinges will go remember, doors are supposed to open into the room, they are also traditionally expected to open to a wall, not to flap in the open area of the room.
If you have someone handy, you may want to bring them into play at this time. Line up the door where you think it should be placed, using shims to balance it off the ground enough that it will open and close. You should put the first screw in at this point, at the top of the door. Make sure someone is holding up the weight of the door (or keep it on shims) so the weight doesn't pull that screw out.
Close the door and make sure it shuts properly. It should be hitting the strike plate evenly. If not, adjust the shim placement until you have even amounts of space all the way around and the door seems to be evenly set. Immediately put a screw in the bottom door hinges. This will make sure you have the door hinges lined up in a manner that will allow the door to open and close correctly.
With this screw in, check one more time to make sure it's lined up properly, then install the remaining screws in the door hinges and the job is done.
Jennifer Akre, the author of this article, is an owner of different niche sites that offer clients and customer not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating their indoor and outdoor living space. Whether you want to redecorate your living room or create the ultimate outdoor oasis, there is a ton of helpful advice to take advantage of. Today, she shares her insight when purchasing lavish cabinet hinges, luxurious door hinges, and useful hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
Whether it's because your door is old and no longer works with your décor, or you want something a little more flashy in the space, trading out doors and door hinges is not too difficult of a job.
Don't think you can do it? Think you need a lot of tools to get the job done? Think again. All you need is a few shims, or thin pieces of wood that can be slipped under the door to hold it at the right height, nails or an electric screwdriver and the door and door hinges.
Here are the steps for taking on the installation process.
Selecting the what you need is easy. Measure the old door that you are taking out of this space and write those measurements down. When it comes to selecting door hinges, consider what this door will be asked to do. If the door is going to get a lot of use you may want to use three 3-inch door hinges to make sure it's sturdy and will hold in place. This is especially the case if it is an exterior door. One way to tell what kind of door hinges to choose is to look at what was being used on the door you are removing.
The easy way to install the door and door hinges is to install the new door hinges where the old ones were. This only works if you selected the same size door hinges as you previously had on the door with proper hole-spacing. If not, you may have to use some wood putty to fill the old holes, and then put the new hinges wherever you would like.
When deciding where the door hinges will go remember, doors are supposed to open into the room, they are also traditionally expected to open to a wall, not to flap in the open area of the room.
If you have someone handy, you may want to bring them into play at this time. Line up the door where you think it should be placed, using shims to balance it off the ground enough that it will open and close. You should put the first screw in at this point, at the top of the door. Make sure someone is holding up the weight of the door (or keep it on shims) so the weight doesn't pull that screw out.
Close the door and make sure it shuts properly. It should be hitting the strike plate evenly. If not, adjust the shim placement until you have even amounts of space all the way around and the door seems to be evenly set. Immediately put a screw in the bottom door hinges. This will make sure you have the door hinges lined up in a manner that will allow the door to open and close correctly.
With this screw in, check one more time to make sure it's lined up properly, then install the remaining screws in the door hinges and the job is done.
Jennifer Akre, the author of this article, is an owner of different niche sites that offer clients and customer not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating their indoor and outdoor living space. Whether you want to redecorate your living room or create the ultimate outdoor oasis, there is a ton of helpful advice to take advantage of. Today, she shares her insight when purchasing lavish cabinet hinges, luxurious door hinges, and useful hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
One of the many advantages of Doing It Yourself!
Here's a article that I came across that I thought would get the inner "Mr. Fix It" going.http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Anthony_Gregory It kind of somes up what I was saying.
Installing a Recessed Medicine Cabinet
They say that your bathroom is one of the most popular improvements that people make to their homes ,so I wanted to start here. Putting in a Medicine Cabinet is a fairly straightforward & simple project that will add immediate value to your bathroom.First, make a rough measurement and mark the space where the cabinet will go. The recommended height from the bottom edge of the mirror to the floor is 40 inches. Measure the width of your cabinet and mark the center point in the wall. Before you begin, locate the studs in the wall. You can do this with a stud finder, which is the easiest way, or by tapping on the wall with a hammer and listening for hollow versus solid sounds. The studs will usually be on 16-inch centers for 2x4s and on 24-inch centers for 2x6s. A serviceable medicine cabinet will not fit between studs on 16-inch centers, so don’t plan on installation without some partial stud removal and additional framing. Note: Narrow cabinets are available, but the size may not be practical for everyday use. Before you start cutting into the wall, turn off the electricity.
If you have a light overhead, then wiring will be located somewhere within the cutout section. You may wish to replace the current light with a lighted cabinet. In that case, simply attach existing wires following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Carefully cut a 6-inch “viewing hole” in your marked cutout to check for electrical wires and plumbing. If you have found a stud that is in the way, you will need to straddle it with your viewing hole. You can stick your hand through and feel around for obstructions that are out of range of a flashlight. There is no easy solution to moving plumbing. In this case, you may want to adjust the mounting location to be clear of the obstacles or consider a wall-mounted cabinet. You also need to make sure the space is deep enough for your cabinet. Standard depths for inset cabinets are 3 ½ inches or 4 inches. Removing a stud to make room for the cabinet may make a much larger hole than you had planned. Additionally, if you are removing any light fixtures above the space, consider taking the wall out in a strip up to the ceiling Replacing drywall in a larger area may be easier and the tapelines will look cleaner after the job is finished. Once the framing is complete, you can tape, plaster, and paint
Make sure that the stud section you remove is not part of a load-bearing wall. If the wall is part of an adjoining room,
be sure that the stud does not attach to anything from the other side. When removing a stud section, you can use a handsaw but a reciprocating saw will make the job much easier.
If the cabinet is designed for either wall mounting or as an inset, you will probably have to mark and drill mounting holes in the sides. Partially pre-drill holes in the cripple studs; the finishing screws will drive in without much effort. Even if your cabinet comes pre-drilled for mounting, this step will make your job easier.
If you are installing a lighted cabinet, you will now attach the electrical.
Once your cabinet is set into the space, make sure it is level. At this point, you may need to add shims. Screw the sides of the cabinet into the framed area. Mount the door, or doors, per the manufacturer’s instructions and you are finished. As always make sure to carefully read all the instructions that came with your cabinet. On my difficulty meter between 1&10 I would give this a 6. Good luck, email me with any questions.
If you have a light overhead, then wiring will be located somewhere within the cutout section. You may wish to replace the current light with a lighted cabinet. In that case, simply attach existing wires following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Carefully cut a 6-inch “viewing hole” in your marked cutout to check for electrical wires and plumbing. If you have found a stud that is in the way, you will need to straddle it with your viewing hole. You can stick your hand through and feel around for obstructions that are out of range of a flashlight. There is no easy solution to moving plumbing. In this case, you may want to adjust the mounting location to be clear of the obstacles or consider a wall-mounted cabinet. You also need to make sure the space is deep enough for your cabinet. Standard depths for inset cabinets are 3 ½ inches or 4 inches. Removing a stud to make room for the cabinet may make a much larger hole than you had planned. Additionally, if you are removing any light fixtures above the space, consider taking the wall out in a strip up to the ceiling Replacing drywall in a larger area may be easier and the tapelines will look cleaner after the job is finished. Once the framing is complete, you can tape, plaster, and paint
Make sure that the stud section you remove is not part of a load-bearing wall. If the wall is part of an adjoining room,
be sure that the stud does not attach to anything from the other side. When removing a stud section, you can use a handsaw but a reciprocating saw will make the job much easier.
If the cabinet is designed for either wall mounting or as an inset, you will probably have to mark and drill mounting holes in the sides. Partially pre-drill holes in the cripple studs; the finishing screws will drive in without much effort. Even if your cabinet comes pre-drilled for mounting, this step will make your job easier.
If you are installing a lighted cabinet, you will now attach the electrical.
Once your cabinet is set into the space, make sure it is level. At this point, you may need to add shims. Screw the sides of the cabinet into the framed area. Mount the door, or doors, per the manufacturer’s instructions and you are finished. As always make sure to carefully read all the instructions that came with your cabinet. On my difficulty meter between 1&10 I would give this a 6. Good luck, email me with any questions.
Become a "Mr. FIXIT"
Hi There,
Thanks for checking out my blog. When your done reading my many articles(and I mean LOTS & LOTS!) you will officially become a" TOOL BELT HERO", I've been wanting to write this kind of blog for a long time but I just could'nt find the time ,so I finally made myself sit down and do it! Every day people spend Thousands & Thousands of dollars on Home Repairs and their really not sure if their getting ripped off or not. I've heard complaints from many of my friends as well as colleagues about the ridiculous amount of money that they have had to pay just in Labor Costs alone, so I was encouraged by them as well as others to write this blog. I truly believe that everyone has a little "Mr Fix It" in them, so even if you"ve never picked up a hammer in your life or never drove a screw, you will learn how to Save A Lot of MONEY and have alot of fun knowing that you did it yourself! Then you too will be able to tell to your friends that you are a "TOOL BELT HERO"
Thanks for checking out my blog. When your done reading my many articles(and I mean LOTS & LOTS!) you will officially become a" TOOL BELT HERO", I've been wanting to write this kind of blog for a long time but I just could'nt find the time ,so I finally made myself sit down and do it! Every day people spend Thousands & Thousands of dollars on Home Repairs and their really not sure if their getting ripped off or not. I've heard complaints from many of my friends as well as colleagues about the ridiculous amount of money that they have had to pay just in Labor Costs alone, so I was encouraged by them as well as others to write this blog. I truly believe that everyone has a little "Mr Fix It" in them, so even if you"ve never picked up a hammer in your life or never drove a screw, you will learn how to Save A Lot of MONEY and have alot of fun knowing that you did it yourself! Then you too will be able to tell to your friends that you are a "TOOL BELT HERO"
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