A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls. A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components (THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil
2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.
3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.
2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.
3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.
4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.
5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner.
Mike Culletto
Product Specialist
H-Mac Systems, Inc
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Alternative Heating Fuel Cost Comparision
I've just finished updating the Fuel Comparison Chart at my alternative heating site, and once again the least expensive fuel to heat with is corn. Although corn reached a high of $7.60 a bushel at the end of June, it has since retreated to $6.31/bushel. This works out to $14.06 per 1 Mil Btu of heat. (The cost to produce 1 Million Btu of heat provides an "apples to apples" method for comparing fuel prices).
Compared to heating oil at $4.71/gal, or $33.41 per 1 Mil Btu, corn is almost 60% cheaper. This is good news if you heat your home with corn AND live in the Corn Belt. For the rest of us who live in the northeast or northwest, wood and wood pellets are still the best option.
A cord of seasoned hardwood for the '08 - '09 heating season now costs around $295, or $17.90 per 1 Mil Btu. This is roughly half the cost of fuel oil for an equal amount of heat. If you want to save even more by seasoning your own hardwood, green wood usually sells for $50 less per cord than seasoned.
The price for a ton of wood pellets has also risen about 8% for the upcoming heating season. Last year's $249/ton price is now $269, or $16.81 per Mil Btu. Despite the increase, the cost of heating with wood pellets remains 50% below the cost of oil.
So far this week, the price of crude has dropped by $15 a barrel and could possibly drop further. This doesn't necessarily indicate a future drop in the cost of wood or wood pellets. Although the price of oil directly affects the overall cost of wood and wood pellets, the dealers in these alternative fuels generally quote a price for the season to accommodate advance orders.
Improve your home with timely energy saving information from Alternative-Heating-Info.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sam_Streubel
Compared to heating oil at $4.71/gal, or $33.41 per 1 Mil Btu, corn is almost 60% cheaper. This is good news if you heat your home with corn AND live in the Corn Belt. For the rest of us who live in the northeast or northwest, wood and wood pellets are still the best option.
A cord of seasoned hardwood for the '08 - '09 heating season now costs around $295, or $17.90 per 1 Mil Btu. This is roughly half the cost of fuel oil for an equal amount of heat. If you want to save even more by seasoning your own hardwood, green wood usually sells for $50 less per cord than seasoned.
The price for a ton of wood pellets has also risen about 8% for the upcoming heating season. Last year's $249/ton price is now $269, or $16.81 per Mil Btu. Despite the increase, the cost of heating with wood pellets remains 50% below the cost of oil.
So far this week, the price of crude has dropped by $15 a barrel and could possibly drop further. This doesn't necessarily indicate a future drop in the cost of wood or wood pellets. Although the price of oil directly affects the overall cost of wood and wood pellets, the dealers in these alternative fuels generally quote a price for the season to accommodate advance orders.
Improve your home with timely energy saving information from Alternative-Heating-Info.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sam_Streubel
Choosing the Best light bulb for Recessed Can Lighting
Choosing the correct light bulb for recessed can lighting can be a daunting task. If you aren't familiar with light bulbs and all the different types it's hard to know where to start. Most folks simply replace burnt out bulbs with what they pull out. Others go to the local hardware store and just buy what "looks" right on the shelf. With a simple analysis, you can choose for yourself what the best light bulb for your application is by splitting out the choices that need to be made.
Obviously, the easiest way to replace light bulbs in your recessed can lights is to pull out the old one and simply purchase that same bulb. If you don't have that as an option, follow the below steps to choose the correct light bulb.
Key Abbreviations to Understand:I'm going to first outline the main letters that you'll see on your current bulb or in your can fixture and what they mean. 40W (or any number followed by a W) = 40 Watt; R16 or BR16 or PAR20 (There are many of these. Most start with a letter or a few letters and are followed by a number) = these are bulb shapes; 120V or 130V (This may or may not be stipulated) = Indicates voltage.
List from Fixture:Your first step should be to look inside your can fixture. Most will have a sticker on it that will outline about a half a dozen of options that can be used in that specific fixture. I.E. 40W R16
Best Style for your Baffle, Lense or Reflector:Next, go to the website of the manufacturer that made your can fixture. The 3 major manufacturers are Cooper Halo Lighting (www.haloltg.com), Juno Lighting (www.junolighting.com) and Lithonia (www.lithonia.com). Around the edge of your can you will have what is known as a baffle, lense or reflector (trim). This is a separate piece you will find in your can. Each manufacturer will have their recommended light bulbs to use that will maximize the effectiveness of your particular baffle, lense or reflector. Find this under their "specifications" sheet attached to your particular attachment.
Decide if you want a Spot or Flood:Some light bulbs like Halogen PAR shaped light bulbs will come two ways: Spot lights or Flood lights. The progression goes from Spot to Flood to A19 which lights up in all directions. Most spots light an area up to 20 degrees in width. Most choose these if they want to light up art work or focus on a mantel or something similar. A flood generally goes from 25 degrees to 60 degrees in swath of light. Then an A19 lights up tan entire area. But not all fixtures are made to have A19 light bulbs in them permanently. In most cases, you'll want flood light bulbs.
What Color of Light do you want?If you are looking at Compact Fluorescents, you will sometimes have an option of color. And I don't mean pink vs. white. I mean the color of the light that is emitted. If your compact fluorescent says that the color temperature is 2700K, the light will be a soft white color. If it says that it is a 5000K, it will be more of a blue-ish white light.
Type of Light Bulb:The last thing you'll need to decide is the type of bulb you will want. The main types of light bulbs that people use are Incandescent, some sort of long life incandescent, halogen and compact fluorescent light bulbs. I'm not going to go into the differences in them all here as that is a whole different conversation. Regardless, many times you will have the option to use any of these types of light bulbs in your can fixture. I.E. A BR40 Incandescent is a similar bulb type as a BR40 halogen. The important thing to remember here is to not go over the wattage the your can fixture recommends. Using a light bulb with the wattage too high for the fixture could shorten the life of the light bulb and could even cause a fire in some of the older cans.
By asking yourself these questions before buying, you will eliminate the confusion this purchase can present. And you will be happier overall with your purchase and the look of your room or application.
Holly has over 10 years experience in the lighting industry. Want more information about lighting or light bulbs? Visit her website http://www.lightbulbmarket.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Holly_Eddins
Obviously, the easiest way to replace light bulbs in your recessed can lights is to pull out the old one and simply purchase that same bulb. If you don't have that as an option, follow the below steps to choose the correct light bulb.
Key Abbreviations to Understand:I'm going to first outline the main letters that you'll see on your current bulb or in your can fixture and what they mean. 40W (or any number followed by a W) = 40 Watt; R16 or BR16 or PAR20 (There are many of these. Most start with a letter or a few letters and are followed by a number) = these are bulb shapes; 120V or 130V (This may or may not be stipulated) = Indicates voltage.
List from Fixture:Your first step should be to look inside your can fixture. Most will have a sticker on it that will outline about a half a dozen of options that can be used in that specific fixture. I.E. 40W R16
Best Style for your Baffle, Lense or Reflector:Next, go to the website of the manufacturer that made your can fixture. The 3 major manufacturers are Cooper Halo Lighting (www.haloltg.com), Juno Lighting (www.junolighting.com) and Lithonia (www.lithonia.com). Around the edge of your can you will have what is known as a baffle, lense or reflector (trim). This is a separate piece you will find in your can. Each manufacturer will have their recommended light bulbs to use that will maximize the effectiveness of your particular baffle, lense or reflector. Find this under their "specifications" sheet attached to your particular attachment.
Decide if you want a Spot or Flood:Some light bulbs like Halogen PAR shaped light bulbs will come two ways: Spot lights or Flood lights. The progression goes from Spot to Flood to A19 which lights up in all directions. Most spots light an area up to 20 degrees in width. Most choose these if they want to light up art work or focus on a mantel or something similar. A flood generally goes from 25 degrees to 60 degrees in swath of light. Then an A19 lights up tan entire area. But not all fixtures are made to have A19 light bulbs in them permanently. In most cases, you'll want flood light bulbs.
What Color of Light do you want?If you are looking at Compact Fluorescents, you will sometimes have an option of color. And I don't mean pink vs. white. I mean the color of the light that is emitted. If your compact fluorescent says that the color temperature is 2700K, the light will be a soft white color. If it says that it is a 5000K, it will be more of a blue-ish white light.
Type of Light Bulb:The last thing you'll need to decide is the type of bulb you will want. The main types of light bulbs that people use are Incandescent, some sort of long life incandescent, halogen and compact fluorescent light bulbs. I'm not going to go into the differences in them all here as that is a whole different conversation. Regardless, many times you will have the option to use any of these types of light bulbs in your can fixture. I.E. A BR40 Incandescent is a similar bulb type as a BR40 halogen. The important thing to remember here is to not go over the wattage the your can fixture recommends. Using a light bulb with the wattage too high for the fixture could shorten the life of the light bulb and could even cause a fire in some of the older cans.
By asking yourself these questions before buying, you will eliminate the confusion this purchase can present. And you will be happier overall with your purchase and the look of your room or application.
Holly has over 10 years experience in the lighting industry. Want more information about lighting or light bulbs? Visit her website http://www.lightbulbmarket.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Holly_Eddins
Installing a New Crystal Chandelier(not as hard as you think)
We all know that normally installation of chandeliers is difficult. But if you know some easy tips to install it, you will find it more interesting and enjoyable. It may be a good way to start knowing your lighting fixture well. It is always known that crystal chandeliers can always offer you significant upgrade and will always going to be a great addition to a home. So, we all know that crystal chandelier can do wonders on our home that will eventually end up to be a great décor to our home. Always remember that in installing it the better way to approach it by reading the manual or asking for assistance you can never be too careful so I suggest be cautious as always and have fun doing it.
Note that for small rooms, a smaller crystal chandelier will suit more. It won't be so captivating but it will definitely enhance the looks of your room. You can choose larger size chandelier for bigger areas of your home such as living room. Hanging an immense crystal chandelier in your large living room can brighten up an elegant living area. Remember the crystal chandeliers are beautiful and heavy with sophisticated designs when compared to other illumination basics. The basic tips for hanging chandeliers are actually considering the amount of work that you will have to put out for crystal chandelier is high. You should always be careful on it and have it on a good side. Be sure that you can always give out your best and always to try to make sure that you are doing the right things to it.
Remember that the weight of the crystal chandelier is crucial before installation. If the weight of the crystal chandelier is more than your current illumination elements change the junction box in the ceiling. If it is less than the weight of the current illumination, you can continue using the same for installation. Always, make it sure that you have switched off the electricity before installing it. Always use a circuit tester to check the current flow. Remove the old illumination; make marks on the wires to spot how it was installed. Install the chandelier on the mounting strap and screw it in the junction box. Twist the wires from the chandelier and ceiling clockwise. Go through the instruction manual once again carefully. It will give you more details on effective and successful installation. But my advise will always be ask for help or assistance, remember that crystal chandelier is a delicate décor so you should be ready on it for serious care.
Jron Magcale
http://goldenageusa.com
Jron c. Magcale from Jump2Top - SEO Company
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jron_C._Magcale
Note that for small rooms, a smaller crystal chandelier will suit more. It won't be so captivating but it will definitely enhance the looks of your room. You can choose larger size chandelier for bigger areas of your home such as living room. Hanging an immense crystal chandelier in your large living room can brighten up an elegant living area. Remember the crystal chandeliers are beautiful and heavy with sophisticated designs when compared to other illumination basics. The basic tips for hanging chandeliers are actually considering the amount of work that you will have to put out for crystal chandelier is high. You should always be careful on it and have it on a good side. Be sure that you can always give out your best and always to try to make sure that you are doing the right things to it.
Remember that the weight of the crystal chandelier is crucial before installation. If the weight of the crystal chandelier is more than your current illumination elements change the junction box in the ceiling. If it is less than the weight of the current illumination, you can continue using the same for installation. Always, make it sure that you have switched off the electricity before installing it. Always use a circuit tester to check the current flow. Remove the old illumination; make marks on the wires to spot how it was installed. Install the chandelier on the mounting strap and screw it in the junction box. Twist the wires from the chandelier and ceiling clockwise. Go through the instruction manual once again carefully. It will give you more details on effective and successful installation. But my advise will always be ask for help or assistance, remember that crystal chandelier is a delicate décor so you should be ready on it for serious care.
Jron Magcale
http://goldenageusa.com
Jron c. Magcale from Jump2Top - SEO Company
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jron_C._Magcale
Friday, June 20, 2008
Patching Drywall
When Patching a hole in your Drywall , (depending how big it) is always use Drywall Tape. Make sure to cover the hole with Joint Compound first and then embed the tape in the compound. It will take 2 0r 3 applications before you sand & paint. If the hole is bigger (12"x 12" etc..) then you will have to make a Blow Out Patch. This requires that you place pieces of wood into the hole along the edges,screw them in place,then add a piece of drywall cut same size as the hole & screw that in place also. Then it's just a matter of taping & mudding the hole,sanding, then painting & your projects complete!
Monday, June 16, 2008
My AMAZON "How To" Store!
I am really happy to tell everyone that I've just opened a Amazon Book Store for the Mr. Fix-It's in all of you. This store is full of Great How-To Books that I've read and used many times and have given me a wealth of knowledge over the years. My store also has Great Prices on these books as well so you save $$$ while you gain the knowledge to do these Home Repairs yourself, so please visit my store and I know you won't be disappointed. Check it out at:
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Building a Fence for Privacy
Living in the city has its advantages of course but you have to deal with neighbors. One great method to keep good relations with a neighbor is to have a fence between your yards when it comes to living in a tight neighborhood. This is true in most cases. However, there are times when you can have big problems by building a fence, and this was something I witnessed first hand. It wasn't my yard, as I was a renter, but it did affect my life because I lived in the house in question.
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
Buying Power Drills
Take the hard work out of DO-IT-YOURSELF with a good drill. It could be on of the most diverse and very useful tools you buy.Proper drill will save time during your work and make easy drilling holes into metal, wood, concrete etc., as well as drive screws and bolts.It is useful getting acquaint with a drill's main feature before you buy, so you could choose the best one.I. Types
Standard Drills
Hammer Drills
Screw Guns II. Cordless drills
Cord or Cordless? Pros and Cons
The main features
Power and Battery III. Drill Shapes IV. Variable speed V. Torque VI. Other features to look out for VII. Power rating VIII. Hammer action IX. Chuck type
TYPES
Standard Drills
Standard electric rotary drills designed for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines will cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drills have a chuck which will only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.
Hammer Drills
The hammer drill is similar to a standard electric drill, with the exception that it is provided with a hammer action for drilling masonry. The hammer action may be engaged or disengaged as required.
The hammer action is cheap but delicate. It uses two cam plates to make the chuck accelerate towards the work. However because of the relative masses of the chuck+bit and the remainder of the drill the energy transfer is inefficient and will fail to penetrate harder materials and vibrates the operators hand. The cams wear quickly.
Compare this to a rotary/pneumatic hammer drill where just the bit is accelerated to the work. They have relatively little vibration and penetrate most building materials. It feels as though the work is sucking the bit inwards.
Large cam hammer drills, especially transverse motor, are crude in their action. The energy delivered in each stroke is highly variable. The cheaper drill will smash its way through the work and vibrate the surroundings, this can cause lots of collateral damage. A good SDS drill will gently pulverize the work material just in front of the bit and glide into the hole without any "fuss".
However there is a big difference in cost. In the UK typically £12-40 for a cam hammer and £100 up for a rotary/pneumatic. For light DIY use they are fine.
Screw Guns
These Electric Screwdrivers are made specifically for applying screws and hexagon headed Tek Screw to plasterboard and metal cladding. The drywall screws are designed purely for plasterboard fixing. The electric screwdriver uses a specially designed chuck to self guide the specifically designed fixings that feature widely spaced threads to ensure good grip. This is achieved by the unique collar on this type of electric screwdriver.
Some electric screwdrivers are able to use Collated Screws which provides auto-loading of screws which are loaded into the tool on a strip which is then fed onto the bit.
Drill press
A drill press (also known as pedestal drill, pillar drill, or bench drill) is a fixed style of drill that may be mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The head has a set of handles (usually 3) radiating from a central hub that, when turned, move the spindle and chuck vertically, parallel to the axis of the column. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and re-clamp the table in position. The table may also be offset from the spindle's axis and in some cases rotated to a position perpendicular to the column. The size of a drill press is typically measured in terms of swing. Swing is defined as twice the throat distance, which is the distance from the center of the spindle to the closest edge of the pillar. For example, a 16-inch drill press will have an 8-inch throat distance.
A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:
less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.
the table allows a vise or clamp to position and lock the work in place making the operation secure. the angle of the spindle is fixed in relation to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and repetitively.
Speed change is achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement. Some drill presses add a third stepped pulley to increase the speed range. Modern drill presses can, however, use a variable-speed motor in conjunction with the stepped-pulley system; a few older drill presses, on the other hand, have a sort of traction-based continuously variable transmission for wide ranges of chuck speeds instead, which can be changed while the machine is running.
CORDLESS DRILLS
A cordless drill is a type of electric drill which uses rechargeable batteries. These drills are available with similar features to an AC mains-powered drill. They are available in the hammer drill configuration and most also have a clutch setting which allows them to be used for driving screws.
For continuous use, a worker will have one or more spare battery packs charging while drilling, so that he or she can quickly swap them, instead of having to wait several hours during recharges.
Early cordless drills started with interchangeable 7.2V battery packs, and over the years the battery voltage has been increased to 18V, and higher, allowing these tools to produce as much torque as many mains-powered drills. The drawback of most current models is the use of nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, which develop a memory effect or internal short circuits due to dendrite growth, severely limiting their useful life, and posing a hazardous materials disposal problem. Drill manufacturers are now introducing lithium ion batteries, most notably DEWALT.
The main advantages are lack of memory effect and very short charging time. Instead of charging a tool for an hour to get 20 minutes of use, 20 minutes of charge can run the tool for an hour. Lithium-ion batteries also have a constant discharge rate. The power output remains constant until the battery is depleted, something that nickel-cadmium batteries also lack, and which makes the tool much more versatile. Lithium-ion batteries also hold a charge for a significantly longer time than nickel-cadmium batteries, about 2 years if not used, vs. around 4 months for a nickel-cadmium battery.
CORD OR CORDLESS. Pros and ConsI. Corded Drills
Pack the most power
Most durable
Can handle mixing mud, boring holes, and drilling concrete
Usually unnecessary for most homeowners II. Cordless Power Drills
Easily transported and used
Less power and run time restricted by battery life
Recharging may take several hours
Higher voltage means more power, but also more weight
Newer technology has improved cordless drills; most are now strong enough for many tasks previously out of their league Cordless drill:
Lightweight, easy to handle and comfortable to use
Safer to work with as there's no trailing cord
More versatile - can access more tricky to get to places and can be used anywhere, there's no restriction on distance or electricity supply
Batteries can be interchanged for continuous power
Some models double up as an electric screwdriver
A 'quick charge' feature is handy if you've forgotten to charge it in advance
Not as much power as a corded model and has limited battery life
You need to remember to charge the battery before use
Some are not capable of drilling through masonryCorded drill:
More power and torque
Always ready to use and provides continuous power
May have extra features not available on a cordless model
Models tend to be heavier than cordless models
The cord can be restrictive and intrusive
You're reliant on a nearby electricity socket
THE MAIN FEATURES
Top 10 points to look for:
Speed-range switch, generally 2 ratios, both high and low, normally selected by changing mechanical gearing. High is for drilling applications whilst low range is reserved for driving screws. Look out for the widest range between the two settingsLook for a reliable motor, some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some bosch models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are uning your cordless drill on a daily basis. Forward/reverse switch: This should be easy to operate with either your thumb or trigger finger - again this is a standard feature but look for one which is easy to operate. Hand grip: Texture and contoured, should aid your grip, some Porter and Cable cordless drills have padded grips which you can choose to match your hand size - useful after an 8 hour shift. Voltage: a higher voltage means more drilling power but it can also mean more weight - don't buy a drill you won't need, 12 volt drills are powerful enough for most DIY users, bigger models just weigh more so think carefully about what you will be using the drill for. Batteries: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries tend to be better because they deliver more charge and last longer.Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping the drill, Variable speed offers the greatest control. Chuck jaws: The maximum chuck capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Although some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits, these have a 1/2inch chuck. Keyless chuck: Virtually a standard fitting today, hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws. The keyless chuck can grip any screwdriver bit or drill bit securely. Clutch: Setting the clutch gives you greater control of the depth to which screws are driven.
POWER AND BATTERY
Batteries: A cordless drill is only as good as its battery. Make sure the battery has enough run time to help you power through all your tasks. For more demanding applications, look for a drill that comes with a second battery or purchase an additional one. Chargers can take several hours to fully recharge a battery, so bear that in mind when planning your work schedule. If you need a faster recharge, look for a "smart" charger. Smart chargers work quickly and often reduce charge as the battery becomes full to avoid overcharging to extend the life of the battery. Look for nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) and lithium-ion batteries, as they are slightly smaller and tend to have a longer run time.
Charge a second battery as you work to avoid mid-job downtime Smart chargers use fans to reduce heat and decrease recharging time NiMH batteries are easier and less hazardous to dispose of than other types
First thing when you look at a good cordless drill will be Volts of the the battery pack. To simplify it - the more Volts your cordless drill has - the faster the motor spins - the more torque you will get. Unfortunately - the more volts your cordless drills have - the heavier they get (if you ever worked with a 18 Volt drill over a longer period of time - you will know what I am talking about).
Similar important as the Volts of your battery are the Ampere. Measured in Ah (Ampere per hour) it gives you an idea of how long a battery will last. You can have a 12 Volts battery with 1.8 Ah and with 2.4 Ah. Obviously both batteries should give you the same power initially, but the 2.4 Ah will last 30% longer. Important if you use cordless drills for heavy duty work.
Looking at Volts and Ampere, you should also understand the basic types of battery packs currently available on the market. The (older) Standard Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) battery packs are cheaper but do not give you much Ah as the newer Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs. The Ni-MH packs also give you an additional advantage in recharging, as the do not loose power after being recharged many many times (no-memory effect). Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs are usually more expensive, but definitely worth it's money.
As batteries changed improved over the past years most manufacturers offer a wide range of power packs. Finding the right Dewalt or Makita batteries can therefore sometimes be a bit of a challenge.
The higher the voltage, the more power (9.6-28V) and weight (3-10 lb) the drill will posess. Most household jobs will be fine with a 13.2 volt or 14.4 volt battery, but an 18 volt couldn't hurt. Most 9.6V drills might be sufficient for home jobs, but may lack the needed torque you find in a 14.4V drill -- which is usually not significantly more in price. Go with at least a 14.4V. For tough jobs and doing masonry, a more powerful 24 or 28 volt battery is recommended.
Rechargeable drill batteries should last you about five years, or roughly 500 charges, though with frequent use you might need to replace it sooner. They can be pricey ($50-$80) so if your drill was only $100 or less, you might want to consider just buying a brand new drill. If you have a higher end drill, it's probably more economical to buy a replacement battery.
DRILL SHAPES
Pistol Grip Drills
Are held like a pistol. Doesn't that feel powerful?
T-Handle Drills
Are most popular. Shaped like a T for best balance.
Right Angle Drills
Are barrel-less. The bit extends from the base at a right angle.
TORQUE
Drill price reflects a number of features, including torque. Torque, which is measured in foot-pounds, is the drill's maximum amount of turning force. Some drills have an adjustable clutch with different torque settings for different applications.
Common features you'll want in a cordless or corded drill are electric brakes, which stops the drill chuck as soon as you release the trigger, and keyless chucks.
OTHER FEATURES TO LOOK OUT FOR
Keyless Chuck: The chuck holds the drill bit in place, and keyless chucks allow you to conveniently change bits without having to use a separate key to unlock and replace.Auxiliary Handle: Drills with side handles provide greater control and two-handed operation. These auxiliary handles rotate, enabling you to find the ideal angle and position from which to work.Multiple Clutch Settings: Cordless drills often feature a clutch adjustment ring, which may have anywhere from two to twenty-four settings. Once you know the depth and torque needed on a particular surface, set the clutch accordingly to ensure consistent results and reduce the instance of wrist snap. Electronic Brake: This feature causes the drill to stop immediately when you stop squeezing the trigger, preventing you from overdriving or stripping screws. Variable Speed and Reversing: Many drills offer multiple speed settings, allowing you to choose the right one for the job at hand, and most have a reverse feature that allows you to remove screws and other fasteners. Heat Shields and Cooling Fans: These features protect the drill from overheating, enabling longer, more efficient periods of use.
Power Drills guide is politely presented by Power Tools easiest choice service
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Oleg_Cheban
Standard Drills
Hammer Drills
Screw Guns II. Cordless drills
Cord or Cordless? Pros and Cons
The main features
Power and Battery III. Drill Shapes IV. Variable speed V. Torque VI. Other features to look out for VII. Power rating VIII. Hammer action IX. Chuck type
TYPES
Standard Drills
Standard electric rotary drills designed for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines will cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drills have a chuck which will only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.
Hammer Drills
The hammer drill is similar to a standard electric drill, with the exception that it is provided with a hammer action for drilling masonry. The hammer action may be engaged or disengaged as required.
The hammer action is cheap but delicate. It uses two cam plates to make the chuck accelerate towards the work. However because of the relative masses of the chuck+bit and the remainder of the drill the energy transfer is inefficient and will fail to penetrate harder materials and vibrates the operators hand. The cams wear quickly.
Compare this to a rotary/pneumatic hammer drill where just the bit is accelerated to the work. They have relatively little vibration and penetrate most building materials. It feels as though the work is sucking the bit inwards.
Large cam hammer drills, especially transverse motor, are crude in their action. The energy delivered in each stroke is highly variable. The cheaper drill will smash its way through the work and vibrate the surroundings, this can cause lots of collateral damage. A good SDS drill will gently pulverize the work material just in front of the bit and glide into the hole without any "fuss".
However there is a big difference in cost. In the UK typically £12-40 for a cam hammer and £100 up for a rotary/pneumatic. For light DIY use they are fine.
Screw Guns
These Electric Screwdrivers are made specifically for applying screws and hexagon headed Tek Screw to plasterboard and metal cladding. The drywall screws are designed purely for plasterboard fixing. The electric screwdriver uses a specially designed chuck to self guide the specifically designed fixings that feature widely spaced threads to ensure good grip. This is achieved by the unique collar on this type of electric screwdriver.
Some electric screwdrivers are able to use Collated Screws which provides auto-loading of screws which are loaded into the tool on a strip which is then fed onto the bit.
Drill press
A drill press (also known as pedestal drill, pillar drill, or bench drill) is a fixed style of drill that may be mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The head has a set of handles (usually 3) radiating from a central hub that, when turned, move the spindle and chuck vertically, parallel to the axis of the column. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and re-clamp the table in position. The table may also be offset from the spindle's axis and in some cases rotated to a position perpendicular to the column. The size of a drill press is typically measured in terms of swing. Swing is defined as twice the throat distance, which is the distance from the center of the spindle to the closest edge of the pillar. For example, a 16-inch drill press will have an 8-inch throat distance.
A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:
less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.
the table allows a vise or clamp to position and lock the work in place making the operation secure. the angle of the spindle is fixed in relation to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and repetitively.
Speed change is achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement. Some drill presses add a third stepped pulley to increase the speed range. Modern drill presses can, however, use a variable-speed motor in conjunction with the stepped-pulley system; a few older drill presses, on the other hand, have a sort of traction-based continuously variable transmission for wide ranges of chuck speeds instead, which can be changed while the machine is running.
CORDLESS DRILLS
A cordless drill is a type of electric drill which uses rechargeable batteries. These drills are available with similar features to an AC mains-powered drill. They are available in the hammer drill configuration and most also have a clutch setting which allows them to be used for driving screws.
For continuous use, a worker will have one or more spare battery packs charging while drilling, so that he or she can quickly swap them, instead of having to wait several hours during recharges.
Early cordless drills started with interchangeable 7.2V battery packs, and over the years the battery voltage has been increased to 18V, and higher, allowing these tools to produce as much torque as many mains-powered drills. The drawback of most current models is the use of nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, which develop a memory effect or internal short circuits due to dendrite growth, severely limiting their useful life, and posing a hazardous materials disposal problem. Drill manufacturers are now introducing lithium ion batteries, most notably DEWALT.
The main advantages are lack of memory effect and very short charging time. Instead of charging a tool for an hour to get 20 minutes of use, 20 minutes of charge can run the tool for an hour. Lithium-ion batteries also have a constant discharge rate. The power output remains constant until the battery is depleted, something that nickel-cadmium batteries also lack, and which makes the tool much more versatile. Lithium-ion batteries also hold a charge for a significantly longer time than nickel-cadmium batteries, about 2 years if not used, vs. around 4 months for a nickel-cadmium battery.
CORD OR CORDLESS. Pros and ConsI. Corded Drills
Pack the most power
Most durable
Can handle mixing mud, boring holes, and drilling concrete
Usually unnecessary for most homeowners II. Cordless Power Drills
Easily transported and used
Less power and run time restricted by battery life
Recharging may take several hours
Higher voltage means more power, but also more weight
Newer technology has improved cordless drills; most are now strong enough for many tasks previously out of their league Cordless drill:
Lightweight, easy to handle and comfortable to use
Safer to work with as there's no trailing cord
More versatile - can access more tricky to get to places and can be used anywhere, there's no restriction on distance or electricity supply
Batteries can be interchanged for continuous power
Some models double up as an electric screwdriver
A 'quick charge' feature is handy if you've forgotten to charge it in advance
Not as much power as a corded model and has limited battery life
You need to remember to charge the battery before use
Some are not capable of drilling through masonryCorded drill:
More power and torque
Always ready to use and provides continuous power
May have extra features not available on a cordless model
Models tend to be heavier than cordless models
The cord can be restrictive and intrusive
You're reliant on a nearby electricity socket
THE MAIN FEATURES
Top 10 points to look for:
Speed-range switch, generally 2 ratios, both high and low, normally selected by changing mechanical gearing. High is for drilling applications whilst low range is reserved for driving screws. Look out for the widest range between the two settingsLook for a reliable motor, some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some bosch models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are uning your cordless drill on a daily basis. Forward/reverse switch: This should be easy to operate with either your thumb or trigger finger - again this is a standard feature but look for one which is easy to operate. Hand grip: Texture and contoured, should aid your grip, some Porter and Cable cordless drills have padded grips which you can choose to match your hand size - useful after an 8 hour shift. Voltage: a higher voltage means more drilling power but it can also mean more weight - don't buy a drill you won't need, 12 volt drills are powerful enough for most DIY users, bigger models just weigh more so think carefully about what you will be using the drill for. Batteries: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries tend to be better because they deliver more charge and last longer.Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping the drill, Variable speed offers the greatest control. Chuck jaws: The maximum chuck capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Although some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits, these have a 1/2inch chuck. Keyless chuck: Virtually a standard fitting today, hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws. The keyless chuck can grip any screwdriver bit or drill bit securely. Clutch: Setting the clutch gives you greater control of the depth to which screws are driven.
POWER AND BATTERY
Batteries: A cordless drill is only as good as its battery. Make sure the battery has enough run time to help you power through all your tasks. For more demanding applications, look for a drill that comes with a second battery or purchase an additional one. Chargers can take several hours to fully recharge a battery, so bear that in mind when planning your work schedule. If you need a faster recharge, look for a "smart" charger. Smart chargers work quickly and often reduce charge as the battery becomes full to avoid overcharging to extend the life of the battery. Look for nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) and lithium-ion batteries, as they are slightly smaller and tend to have a longer run time.
Charge a second battery as you work to avoid mid-job downtime Smart chargers use fans to reduce heat and decrease recharging time NiMH batteries are easier and less hazardous to dispose of than other types
First thing when you look at a good cordless drill will be Volts of the the battery pack. To simplify it - the more Volts your cordless drill has - the faster the motor spins - the more torque you will get. Unfortunately - the more volts your cordless drills have - the heavier they get (if you ever worked with a 18 Volt drill over a longer period of time - you will know what I am talking about).
Similar important as the Volts of your battery are the Ampere. Measured in Ah (Ampere per hour) it gives you an idea of how long a battery will last. You can have a 12 Volts battery with 1.8 Ah and with 2.4 Ah. Obviously both batteries should give you the same power initially, but the 2.4 Ah will last 30% longer. Important if you use cordless drills for heavy duty work.
Looking at Volts and Ampere, you should also understand the basic types of battery packs currently available on the market. The (older) Standard Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) battery packs are cheaper but do not give you much Ah as the newer Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs. The Ni-MH packs also give you an additional advantage in recharging, as the do not loose power after being recharged many many times (no-memory effect). Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs are usually more expensive, but definitely worth it's money.
As batteries changed improved over the past years most manufacturers offer a wide range of power packs. Finding the right Dewalt or Makita batteries can therefore sometimes be a bit of a challenge.
The higher the voltage, the more power (9.6-28V) and weight (3-10 lb) the drill will posess. Most household jobs will be fine with a 13.2 volt or 14.4 volt battery, but an 18 volt couldn't hurt. Most 9.6V drills might be sufficient for home jobs, but may lack the needed torque you find in a 14.4V drill -- which is usually not significantly more in price. Go with at least a 14.4V. For tough jobs and doing masonry, a more powerful 24 or 28 volt battery is recommended.
Rechargeable drill batteries should last you about five years, or roughly 500 charges, though with frequent use you might need to replace it sooner. They can be pricey ($50-$80) so if your drill was only $100 or less, you might want to consider just buying a brand new drill. If you have a higher end drill, it's probably more economical to buy a replacement battery.
DRILL SHAPES
Pistol Grip Drills
Are held like a pistol. Doesn't that feel powerful?
T-Handle Drills
Are most popular. Shaped like a T for best balance.
Right Angle Drills
Are barrel-less. The bit extends from the base at a right angle.
TORQUE
Drill price reflects a number of features, including torque. Torque, which is measured in foot-pounds, is the drill's maximum amount of turning force. Some drills have an adjustable clutch with different torque settings for different applications.
Common features you'll want in a cordless or corded drill are electric brakes, which stops the drill chuck as soon as you release the trigger, and keyless chucks.
OTHER FEATURES TO LOOK OUT FOR
Keyless Chuck: The chuck holds the drill bit in place, and keyless chucks allow you to conveniently change bits without having to use a separate key to unlock and replace.Auxiliary Handle: Drills with side handles provide greater control and two-handed operation. These auxiliary handles rotate, enabling you to find the ideal angle and position from which to work.Multiple Clutch Settings: Cordless drills often feature a clutch adjustment ring, which may have anywhere from two to twenty-four settings. Once you know the depth and torque needed on a particular surface, set the clutch accordingly to ensure consistent results and reduce the instance of wrist snap. Electronic Brake: This feature causes the drill to stop immediately when you stop squeezing the trigger, preventing you from overdriving or stripping screws. Variable Speed and Reversing: Many drills offer multiple speed settings, allowing you to choose the right one for the job at hand, and most have a reverse feature that allows you to remove screws and other fasteners. Heat Shields and Cooling Fans: These features protect the drill from overheating, enabling longer, more efficient periods of use.
Power Drills guide is politely presented by Power Tools easiest choice service
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Oleg_Cheban
Taking Care of your AC
This time of year I thought we need to talk about our AC:
A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls.
A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components
(THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls.
A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components
(THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
How To: DryWall
Keep in mind that dry walling looks a lot easier then it is, however, you can get into the hang of it when you work closely next to a professional. Perhaps it is time to ask your friend for that favor he owes you. You will want to get all the tools before you start dry walling. You will need to have things like a putty trail, tray, sandpapers, joint putty, a scraper, a hammer, paint, paint thinner, plaster, and dry wall tape. You will need to look at the area that you wish to dry wall and figure out exactly what it is that you would like to do. A lot of people will use the putty to place the sheets together and feel the cracks, but then some like to use tape. You could use them both together to get the best finish. Keep in mind that if you have never hung dry wall before, that it may be best to have someone with you who is experienced.
Dry walling a home is easier said than done; however, it is never as difficult as some lead you to believe. To getting your start in dry walling you should follow a few very easy steps. What kind of tools are you going to need? You will need a Putty Trial, Tray, sandpaper, and joint putty, scraper, hammer, paint, thinner, patches, plaster, and a few other items to finish the task. Of course, it depends on the size of the area as to what exact tools and materials are needed.
You should never start a drywall project until you have prepared the area. This means that you may have to wash the wall so that no dust gets trapped into the dry wall. You will also want to keep in mind that you may have to smooth or even out the wall, incase the paneling has warped.
Once you have hung your dry wall, you will need to get ready to paint, however, you will need to cover up the many drywall nails that you have used. You will find that you may even need to sand the dry wall in some areas so that it looks spotless. You will want to consider doing everything you can to make the walls look natural.
As for the paint you can go to any of the local hardware stores and paint the walls whatever it is that you desire. Keep in mind that newly hung drywall will need a coat or two of primer. This is because the paper on the dry wall will soak up the paint. You will want to make sure that you use the primary or you will be wasting a lot of paint.
Dry walling is not hard, but you have to know what you are doing in order for it to look right.
Concentrating recent findings in price of drywall, the reviewer published at large for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You might discover his articles on drywall prices at insidewoodworking.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
Dry walling a home is easier said than done; however, it is never as difficult as some lead you to believe. To getting your start in dry walling you should follow a few very easy steps. What kind of tools are you going to need? You will need a Putty Trial, Tray, sandpaper, and joint putty, scraper, hammer, paint, thinner, patches, plaster, and a few other items to finish the task. Of course, it depends on the size of the area as to what exact tools and materials are needed.
You should never start a drywall project until you have prepared the area. This means that you may have to wash the wall so that no dust gets trapped into the dry wall. You will also want to keep in mind that you may have to smooth or even out the wall, incase the paneling has warped.
Once you have hung your dry wall, you will need to get ready to paint, however, you will need to cover up the many drywall nails that you have used. You will find that you may even need to sand the dry wall in some areas so that it looks spotless. You will want to consider doing everything you can to make the walls look natural.
As for the paint you can go to any of the local hardware stores and paint the walls whatever it is that you desire. Keep in mind that newly hung drywall will need a coat or two of primer. This is because the paper on the dry wall will soak up the paint. You will want to make sure that you use the primary or you will be wasting a lot of paint.
Dry walling is not hard, but you have to know what you are doing in order for it to look right.
Concentrating recent findings in price of drywall, the reviewer published at large for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You might discover his articles on drywall prices at insidewoodworking.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
How To: WallPaper
Removing wallpaper can be one of the most frustrating DIY projects. However with this guide you will be able to keep your sanity and remove wallpaper more efficiently. Don't miss out on these ideas!
Materials Needed:
Screwdriver
Wallpaper Perforating Tool
Spray Bottle for Wallpaper Solution
Wallpaper Solution
Garbage Bags
Sponge
Painters Tape
Sand Paper
Safety Glasses and Breathing Mask
Prep of the wall - Turn off the power breaker, and then remove all the switch and outlet covers. Once those are removed you can apply blue painters tape to the baseboards and outlets this can help protect your baseboard and outlets from scratches. Although tape is not required it can be beneficial to use, especially if you are going to be painting afterword.
You're First Cut - You first need to make a few cuts into the wallpaper. This can be done with a perforation tool; one can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you don't apply so much pressure that it cuts into the drywall.
Wallpaper Solution - Now you will spray or sponge on a wallpaper removal. You can purchase chemical concoctions for wallpaper removal from any home improvement store that will accomplish this. However the same effect can be had without losing 8 bucks, get a spray bottle and mix a cup of vinegar to every gallon of water. Make sure you mix it with as hot as you can stand water. This will do essentially the same thing. If your solution gets cold it will not be as effective, so you may want to remix so you have hot water in your solution. You can also use fabric softener to remove stubborn wallpaper.
Peeling the Wallpaper - You will now wait about 10 minutes for the solution to soak into the wallpaper. Once soaked you can begin removing the wallpaper. First peel of as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. You will want to pull away the wallpaper at about a 45 degree angle. Once you have peeled off as much as you can spray your solution on the wallpaper again. Let the solution soak for a few minutes; then begin scraping of the wallpaper. When scraping off the wallpaper you will want to use a 3 inch scraper. Use a plastic scraper instead of metal; metal scrapers are more probe to leaving dents and dings. When you are scraping make sure you don't scrape too hard, otherwise you may have to repair damage you caused.
Stubborn Piece of Wallpaper - One of the worst things about wallpaper removal is that stubborn little piece of wallpaper that will not come off. For those stubborn pieces you can get a piece of sandpaper and actually sand it off. The sandpaper can also be used to remove stubborn glue from the wall. You can hand sand or use a sander to clean off those stubborn pieces. If you do sand the wall you will want to make sure you are wearing a mask, wearing safety glasses and are working in a ventilated area.
Wash the Wall - Once you have removed the wallpaper make sure you wet down and wash the walls with fresh water. Use a sponge to clean off any residue that is still on the wall. It is important you wash the walls a few times so that there are no problems with residue when you paint or do something to the wall.
If you need more DIY tips visit us at http://www.protoolbelts.com/home.php
Materials Needed:
Screwdriver
Wallpaper Perforating Tool
Spray Bottle for Wallpaper Solution
Wallpaper Solution
Garbage Bags
Sponge
Painters Tape
Sand Paper
Safety Glasses and Breathing Mask
Prep of the wall - Turn off the power breaker, and then remove all the switch and outlet covers. Once those are removed you can apply blue painters tape to the baseboards and outlets this can help protect your baseboard and outlets from scratches. Although tape is not required it can be beneficial to use, especially if you are going to be painting afterword.
You're First Cut - You first need to make a few cuts into the wallpaper. This can be done with a perforation tool; one can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you don't apply so much pressure that it cuts into the drywall.
Wallpaper Solution - Now you will spray or sponge on a wallpaper removal. You can purchase chemical concoctions for wallpaper removal from any home improvement store that will accomplish this. However the same effect can be had without losing 8 bucks, get a spray bottle and mix a cup of vinegar to every gallon of water. Make sure you mix it with as hot as you can stand water. This will do essentially the same thing. If your solution gets cold it will not be as effective, so you may want to remix so you have hot water in your solution. You can also use fabric softener to remove stubborn wallpaper.
Peeling the Wallpaper - You will now wait about 10 minutes for the solution to soak into the wallpaper. Once soaked you can begin removing the wallpaper. First peel of as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. You will want to pull away the wallpaper at about a 45 degree angle. Once you have peeled off as much as you can spray your solution on the wallpaper again. Let the solution soak for a few minutes; then begin scraping of the wallpaper. When scraping off the wallpaper you will want to use a 3 inch scraper. Use a plastic scraper instead of metal; metal scrapers are more probe to leaving dents and dings. When you are scraping make sure you don't scrape too hard, otherwise you may have to repair damage you caused.
Stubborn Piece of Wallpaper - One of the worst things about wallpaper removal is that stubborn little piece of wallpaper that will not come off. For those stubborn pieces you can get a piece of sandpaper and actually sand it off. The sandpaper can also be used to remove stubborn glue from the wall. You can hand sand or use a sander to clean off those stubborn pieces. If you do sand the wall you will want to make sure you are wearing a mask, wearing safety glasses and are working in a ventilated area.
Wash the Wall - Once you have removed the wallpaper make sure you wet down and wash the walls with fresh water. Use a sponge to clean off any residue that is still on the wall. It is important you wash the walls a few times so that there are no problems with residue when you paint or do something to the wall.
If you need more DIY tips visit us at http://www.protoolbelts.com/home.php
Repairing Plastic Pipes
BASIC TECHNIQUES
Plastic pipe is an excellent material for installing new plumbing or adding to an existing system. It is light weight, joins more easily than metal and it costs much less. You do not need a propane torch or expensive tools. Solvent cements and compression fittings create tight, permanent, waterproof joints.
Plastic pipes come in the same diameters as metal pipes. Special adapters and fittings connect plastic pipe with a metal system.
Chemically and electrically inert and smooth inside, so no rusting, corroding, accumulation of mineral deposits. No clog as readily as metal.
Rigid and flexible varieties. What you purchase depends upon the plumbing code in your area and function of the pipe and fittings must serve. Rigid pipe can be used for either for drain-waste-vent {DWV}, or hot and cold water supply systems. Depending on the type of plastic. Flexible pipe is only for supply systems.
Rigid pipe is cut with a hack-saw then glued together with solvent solvent. Most codes specify that pipe and fittings of different plastics cannot be mixed in the same system. The materials require different cements and expand at different rates.
Flexible pipe is joined with compression fittings rather than solvent cements. The most flexible pipe, PB {polybutylene} is used for both hot and cold interior supply systems. Excellent heat resistance and very strong. But is generally more expensive than rigid pipe.
Flexible pipe is suited for remodeling jobs where pipes have to be snaked through walls, floors, ceilings and to lawn irrigation systems. Although the pipe is flexible it can kink andshould bend only into gentle curves. It is rigid enough to support itself on fairly long runs. But is best to use extra supports.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Kelleher
Plastic pipe is an excellent material for installing new plumbing or adding to an existing system. It is light weight, joins more easily than metal and it costs much less. You do not need a propane torch or expensive tools. Solvent cements and compression fittings create tight, permanent, waterproof joints.
Plastic pipes come in the same diameters as metal pipes. Special adapters and fittings connect plastic pipe with a metal system.
Chemically and electrically inert and smooth inside, so no rusting, corroding, accumulation of mineral deposits. No clog as readily as metal.
Rigid and flexible varieties. What you purchase depends upon the plumbing code in your area and function of the pipe and fittings must serve. Rigid pipe can be used for either for drain-waste-vent {DWV}, or hot and cold water supply systems. Depending on the type of plastic. Flexible pipe is only for supply systems.
Rigid pipe is cut with a hack-saw then glued together with solvent solvent. Most codes specify that pipe and fittings of different plastics cannot be mixed in the same system. The materials require different cements and expand at different rates.
Flexible pipe is joined with compression fittings rather than solvent cements. The most flexible pipe, PB {polybutylene} is used for both hot and cold interior supply systems. Excellent heat resistance and very strong. But is generally more expensive than rigid pipe.
Flexible pipe is suited for remodeling jobs where pipes have to be snaked through walls, floors, ceilings and to lawn irrigation systems. Although the pipe is flexible it can kink andshould bend only into gentle curves. It is rigid enough to support itself on fairly long runs. But is best to use extra supports.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Kelleher
Fixing a Leaking Gutter
have noticed lately a lot of leaking gutters around where I live. Some from the joints of the gutters and others with just holes or cracks in them, which inspired me to write this. The fix is really simple and quick which is surprising that most people don't fix them.
You are going to need a latter to get you up there high enough so that you are above the gutters and you can see inside of them. Be sure to use latter safety when you are doing this. you will also need some type of sealant or caulk, but there is a sealant that you can buy that the manufacture of the gutters makes. If the have that then use that. To find the type of manufacture that made your gutters, look at a end cap on the gutter it will usually tell you who made them and you can go to them and get the sealant. if not they sell gutter sealant at you home improvement store just tell them what you are doing and they will help you, hopefully.
We need to make sure that the gutter area that we are fixing is clean. Make sure that all the water is out and give it a good scrubbing with a soap or some sort of cleaning product that you have. then you are ready to apply the sealant.
Make sure that the sealant sits a room temperature so that it is easy to apply. Apply and nice think coat of it and smooth it out with a putty knife, and you are all done.
Now if you have a leak where there isn't a joint then you will need a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole or crack and do the same as above and your leak is fixed.
For more articles like this visit http://www.pshomehelp.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Shifflett
You are going to need a latter to get you up there high enough so that you are above the gutters and you can see inside of them. Be sure to use latter safety when you are doing this. you will also need some type of sealant or caulk, but there is a sealant that you can buy that the manufacture of the gutters makes. If the have that then use that. To find the type of manufacture that made your gutters, look at a end cap on the gutter it will usually tell you who made them and you can go to them and get the sealant. if not they sell gutter sealant at you home improvement store just tell them what you are doing and they will help you, hopefully.
We need to make sure that the gutter area that we are fixing is clean. Make sure that all the water is out and give it a good scrubbing with a soap or some sort of cleaning product that you have. then you are ready to apply the sealant.
Make sure that the sealant sits a room temperature so that it is easy to apply. Apply and nice think coat of it and smooth it out with a putty knife, and you are all done.
Now if you have a leak where there isn't a joint then you will need a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole or crack and do the same as above and your leak is fixed.
For more articles like this visit http://www.pshomehelp.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Shifflett
Air Compressor FAQS
Air compressors are a great machine for anyone that has tools that run with power. these are going to help you so much and there are different types out there to consider. You have to think about the tools you need to air compressor for. Here are a few brands that are going to be a great value for you, Copeland, Husky, and Quincy.
Things to think about for an air compressor
You should know how much you are going to use the compressor and what kind of power you are going to need. There are so many different tools that run form a compressor. Some do not have to have the more high powered compressors to make them run efficiently. Other tools for example a drill will need the high power in the compressor to make them run better and keep the air moving.
You need to think about the budget that you are on. sometimes getting a previously used compressor that was well taken care of is the best choice for any smaller budget.
The pump is going to be another important consideration for the compressor. Their are direct and belt drive to choose from. a direct drive will last for up to five hundred hours. They will also take up less room in your workshop and they are going to be better suited for simple projects. One benefit is that you do not have to change the oil. The belt drive will need to have the oil changed at least every five hundred hours and this will last for up to fifteen hundred hours. They are great for anyone that has their own projects that they want to tackle at home.
Think about the power that you want in the compressor. You should think about the horsepower and the square inch of pressure. It is smart to make sure that you have a powerful machine that you can use it for long term. Read what your tools require before you purchase the compressor.
Another thing to remember is the tank size of the compressor. They will come in different sizes from one to two hundred gallons. The more that you use the equipment the bigger the tank will have to be. you should always go a little bit bigger than you would think is necessary. This will give you the ability to be sure that you are getting what you need from the compressor.
Getting the affordability of an air compressor
You need to do some comparable shopping or your air compressor. Think about the brands and read about them. look online and see what type of deals are there. There are machines that are going to be different and the same and come in all different prices. Many of the online sites will also offer good shipping prices to make the deal even better.
The technical writer Johnathan Bakers is specifically interested in subjects dealing with air compressors reviews. Sharing his passion in reports on compressor reviews the author confirmed his expertise in the area.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Johnathan_H._Bakers
Things to think about for an air compressor
You should know how much you are going to use the compressor and what kind of power you are going to need. There are so many different tools that run form a compressor. Some do not have to have the more high powered compressors to make them run efficiently. Other tools for example a drill will need the high power in the compressor to make them run better and keep the air moving.
You need to think about the budget that you are on. sometimes getting a previously used compressor that was well taken care of is the best choice for any smaller budget.
The pump is going to be another important consideration for the compressor. Their are direct and belt drive to choose from. a direct drive will last for up to five hundred hours. They will also take up less room in your workshop and they are going to be better suited for simple projects. One benefit is that you do not have to change the oil. The belt drive will need to have the oil changed at least every five hundred hours and this will last for up to fifteen hundred hours. They are great for anyone that has their own projects that they want to tackle at home.
Think about the power that you want in the compressor. You should think about the horsepower and the square inch of pressure. It is smart to make sure that you have a powerful machine that you can use it for long term. Read what your tools require before you purchase the compressor.
Another thing to remember is the tank size of the compressor. They will come in different sizes from one to two hundred gallons. The more that you use the equipment the bigger the tank will have to be. you should always go a little bit bigger than you would think is necessary. This will give you the ability to be sure that you are getting what you need from the compressor.
Getting the affordability of an air compressor
You need to do some comparable shopping or your air compressor. Think about the brands and read about them. look online and see what type of deals are there. There are machines that are going to be different and the same and come in all different prices. Many of the online sites will also offer good shipping prices to make the deal even better.
The technical writer Johnathan Bakers is specifically interested in subjects dealing with air compressors reviews. Sharing his passion in reports on compressor reviews the author confirmed his expertise in the area.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Johnathan_H._Bakers
DryWall Tools for the Beginner
Hanging and mudding drywall can be an intimidating project especially if it's your first time. While you could hire a professional, a small drywall project can be a great first do-it-yourself job to get you familiar with the process. You can find tutorials online or on DVD but here are some basics to get you familiar with drywall installation and mudding.
Having the right drywall equipment is essential. Basic drywall tools aren't expensive so there isn't a large investment and you'll be able to reuse the tools on future projects.
You'll need measuring and fitting tools such a measuring tape, a t-square that is large enough to run the width of a panel of drywall, a plastic or metal corner tool and a leveling tool. To cut the drywall you should use a jigsaw but for small projects that only require right angles, you can use a cutting tool. You'll also need other cutting tools such as a utility knife and other knives of various lengths for finishing.
For putting up the drywall you'll need drywall screws or nails and tools to affix them, such as a hammer and screwdriver or drill. You'll also need an all purpose drywall compound which comes in powder form or premixed as well as a mud pan for mixing the compound. Special paper tape and textured tape is required to hide the seams prior to mudding. You'll also need trowels for applying the compound and sandpaper (course and fine grit) for finishing.
The key to hanging drywall is planning and having patience. Don't rush through it. If you do, it will show in the results. If you take several days the results will look professional.
Take accurate measurements of the area you're going to apply drywall and add a bit more for cutting and waste. Purchase the right drywall for the job. There is special drywall that is moisture resistant which should be used for the bathroom or homes in tropical climates. Measure out the drywall using your t-square to ensure you cut the drywall straight. Score the drywall will a utility knife and then break off the excess.
Attach the drywall so there are as few seams as possible and the pieces are as close together as possible. Start from the top and move down so that most of the horizontal seams are at the bottom. Make sure all your screws and nails are flush (if not a bit indented) with the drywall. Once it is hung, use the drywall tape to cover over the seams.
Use a putty knife to apply the compound and smooth it out. Wait 24 hours and apply another coat and repeat this two more times. For finishing, use a putty knife and sandpaper to make sure the wall is smooth.
Being particularly passionate about drywall ceiling finishing, Kurt Schefken is writing different articles in the field. You can see his articles on drywall finishing tools over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com/drywall/index.html and many different sources for drywall finishing tools knowledge.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
Having the right drywall equipment is essential. Basic drywall tools aren't expensive so there isn't a large investment and you'll be able to reuse the tools on future projects.
You'll need measuring and fitting tools such a measuring tape, a t-square that is large enough to run the width of a panel of drywall, a plastic or metal corner tool and a leveling tool. To cut the drywall you should use a jigsaw but for small projects that only require right angles, you can use a cutting tool. You'll also need other cutting tools such as a utility knife and other knives of various lengths for finishing.
For putting up the drywall you'll need drywall screws or nails and tools to affix them, such as a hammer and screwdriver or drill. You'll also need an all purpose drywall compound which comes in powder form or premixed as well as a mud pan for mixing the compound. Special paper tape and textured tape is required to hide the seams prior to mudding. You'll also need trowels for applying the compound and sandpaper (course and fine grit) for finishing.
The key to hanging drywall is planning and having patience. Don't rush through it. If you do, it will show in the results. If you take several days the results will look professional.
Take accurate measurements of the area you're going to apply drywall and add a bit more for cutting and waste. Purchase the right drywall for the job. There is special drywall that is moisture resistant which should be used for the bathroom or homes in tropical climates. Measure out the drywall using your t-square to ensure you cut the drywall straight. Score the drywall will a utility knife and then break off the excess.
Attach the drywall so there are as few seams as possible and the pieces are as close together as possible. Start from the top and move down so that most of the horizontal seams are at the bottom. Make sure all your screws and nails are flush (if not a bit indented) with the drywall. Once it is hung, use the drywall tape to cover over the seams.
Use a putty knife to apply the compound and smooth it out. Wait 24 hours and apply another coat and repeat this two more times. For finishing, use a putty knife and sandpaper to make sure the wall is smooth.
Being particularly passionate about drywall ceiling finishing, Kurt Schefken is writing different articles in the field. You can see his articles on drywall finishing tools over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com/drywall/index.html and many different sources for drywall finishing tools knowledge.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
Using Table Saws for Trim Projects
It's important that you recognize the types of saws available to you.
You will find that table saws are a way that you can keep your workshop going strong. You will notice that there are many different types of table saws that are available for you to use. You will find that a saw is a big investment, but one that is worth it. You will want to keep in mind that you should ask your friends and family members on what saw they use and go with the same brand.
You will find that the contractor saws are very heavy duty and they have a motor that is about two horsepower. You will also find that the tables are larger and they come with good fences so that you can have accurate cutting. The fences of course can be upgraded. You will want to make sure that you think about the contractor saws if you need to use the saws a lot. This would be one serious hobby, or you will need to be in the middle of a complete home makeover.
With the bench top saws are fair light weight. You will find that this is your best choice when it comes to limited space. You will want to make sure that you have an easy set up and tear down. You will want to check out the fences before you buy. You will want to consider that you can upgrade the fences on contractor saws; however, you don't upgrade these later. You will want to keep in mind that you need to choose your bench top saws carefully.
As for cabinet saws, you will find that they are very heavy duty pieces of equipment. You will find that they tend to be made by professional cabinet makers and they are also with a larger table. You will find that the motor has to be at least three horsepower and will require 220 voltages. The cuts tend to be more accurate then any other, but the price is so much more expensive.
When it comes to using these saws, you will need to keep in mind that safety should always come first in preparation. You will need to consider using safety glasses and also ear protection, so that the noise doesn't damage your hearing and nothing flies into your eyes. You will need to also wear tighter clothing so that nothing can be caught in the blade and clause you serious injury. You will need to keep the sea clear of wood and debris. The mess on the floor could be a hazard, because you may trip or slip into the saw; causing self injury.
Keep in mind that saws make wood projects easier, but they can also cause serious injury, so you need to practice good safety habits.
Being very excited about best table saw and used table saws, Kurt Schefken is authoring numerous detailed reports on this particular matter. You can find his abstracts on table saw at various other sources for table saw information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
You will find that table saws are a way that you can keep your workshop going strong. You will notice that there are many different types of table saws that are available for you to use. You will find that a saw is a big investment, but one that is worth it. You will want to keep in mind that you should ask your friends and family members on what saw they use and go with the same brand.
You will find that the contractor saws are very heavy duty and they have a motor that is about two horsepower. You will also find that the tables are larger and they come with good fences so that you can have accurate cutting. The fences of course can be upgraded. You will want to make sure that you think about the contractor saws if you need to use the saws a lot. This would be one serious hobby, or you will need to be in the middle of a complete home makeover.
With the bench top saws are fair light weight. You will find that this is your best choice when it comes to limited space. You will want to make sure that you have an easy set up and tear down. You will want to check out the fences before you buy. You will want to consider that you can upgrade the fences on contractor saws; however, you don't upgrade these later. You will want to keep in mind that you need to choose your bench top saws carefully.
As for cabinet saws, you will find that they are very heavy duty pieces of equipment. You will find that they tend to be made by professional cabinet makers and they are also with a larger table. You will find that the motor has to be at least three horsepower and will require 220 voltages. The cuts tend to be more accurate then any other, but the price is so much more expensive.
When it comes to using these saws, you will need to keep in mind that safety should always come first in preparation. You will need to consider using safety glasses and also ear protection, so that the noise doesn't damage your hearing and nothing flies into your eyes. You will need to also wear tighter clothing so that nothing can be caught in the blade and clause you serious injury. You will need to keep the sea clear of wood and debris. The mess on the floor could be a hazard, because you may trip or slip into the saw; causing self injury.
Keep in mind that saws make wood projects easier, but they can also cause serious injury, so you need to practice good safety habits.
Being very excited about best table saw and used table saws, Kurt Schefken is authoring numerous detailed reports on this particular matter. You can find his abstracts on table saw at various other sources for table saw information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
WoodWorking Hand Tools
This page is to help you to avoid wasting money on tools you don't need and spending what you have to spend on tools that are going to do a good job for you. Hopefully you are only going to buy something once. You may as well try and buy the best one you can. Our advice is impartial, we are not linked with any tool manufacturing organisation and we receive no free samples that may blur our judgment or colour our opinion.
Our knowledge is expert, gained over decades of experience of handling these tools and working them ourselves and making our living with them. Our objective is to get the best tools in your hands and show you how to use them properly.
Forged High Carbon Steel
Lets start with the most important part the cutting edge. All your work your effort is through this point. This sharpened steel wedge. You need to have the best steel to save yourself effort and gain more control. Do not worry about manufacturers that claim their steel that holds its edge for soooo.... long. What you really want is SHARP. My experience tells me that "high carbon steel" takes a sharper edge than the A2 kind of steel offered by most modern toolmakers. High carbon steel was at best forged, hammered in a hot state. However modern steels even modern high carbon steels are cold rolled. This gives a"tougher" edge that is lacking a bit of the hardness of genuine forged high carbon steel. Yet it is good steel common in many brands of western chisels as a steel it is acceptable (just). But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. The best forged high carbon steel now seems to come from Britain France and China.
If you can find genuine forged high carbon steel try it. Clifton make a really good genuine forged steel blade "The Victor" plane blade is forged in Sheffield I have these in my planes and replaced an A2 blade from Lie Nielsen to great effect. If you know how to sharpen properly without a silly set of training wheels then it should give you the very best edge most easily. Other sources are blades from Ron Hock he worked with Jim Krenov to develop blades for his students and I believe imports steel from France. www.hocktools.com I have also bought small spoke shaves from Lee Valley that were made in China to a very high standard of steel Old forged steel blades
Beware of "old steel" this is wonderful stuff hard as good tool steel as it can be, and romantic, however it can be so damned hard it cannot be flattened easily enough to make good contact on a sharpening stone. Those old guys did not have the quality control to be sure that every blade was flat so many are not. Getting an old blade flat is a tough job, once you get it flat then you got a real tool for life but boy that is an effort. [I will talk about flatness later its very important.]
A2 Steel
A2 steel is popular with many modern toolmakers "A-2 steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62 cryogenically treated and double tempered" is the info on L -Ni chisels.They are without doubt made with a tough steel, the toughness enables them to hold an edge for AAAAAAges. But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. Many of my students buy these chisels and I don't discourage them. They are a teeny bit tricky to learn to put an edge on but thats not a problem. I prefer teaching people new to this with a high carbon blade as the burr comes away really sweetly. Once you get the idea its no problem to sharpen these A2 blades.
Woodworking Tools Badly Made
Woodworking tool manufacturers need to be aware that they cannot continue to make more inferior products than their forefathers. Or they cannot do this and maintain a market share. Woodworking Tools should work straight out of the box, its not your fault if that tool don't cut, its theirs and they should be made to do better, all of them.
When we see in our own workshop tools that arrive bent we will tell you. We will put it up on this page. We will shame the makers of these tools until they stop making tools that are impossible to put into use without a week course in tool fettling, a $1000 granite slab and a load of wasted time.
David Savage is an Internationally recognized professional Furniture Maker and Designer with over 30 years experience. David runs a furniture making workshop in Shebbear the beautiful county of Devon in England. David can be contacted through his website. This article was published in 2008 is apart of more comprehensive advice to be found at woodworking hand tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Savage
Our knowledge is expert, gained over decades of experience of handling these tools and working them ourselves and making our living with them. Our objective is to get the best tools in your hands and show you how to use them properly.
Forged High Carbon Steel
Lets start with the most important part the cutting edge. All your work your effort is through this point. This sharpened steel wedge. You need to have the best steel to save yourself effort and gain more control. Do not worry about manufacturers that claim their steel that holds its edge for soooo.... long. What you really want is SHARP. My experience tells me that "high carbon steel" takes a sharper edge than the A2 kind of steel offered by most modern toolmakers. High carbon steel was at best forged, hammered in a hot state. However modern steels even modern high carbon steels are cold rolled. This gives a"tougher" edge that is lacking a bit of the hardness of genuine forged high carbon steel. Yet it is good steel common in many brands of western chisels as a steel it is acceptable (just). But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. The best forged high carbon steel now seems to come from Britain France and China.
If you can find genuine forged high carbon steel try it. Clifton make a really good genuine forged steel blade "The Victor" plane blade is forged in Sheffield I have these in my planes and replaced an A2 blade from Lie Nielsen to great effect. If you know how to sharpen properly without a silly set of training wheels then it should give you the very best edge most easily. Other sources are blades from Ron Hock he worked with Jim Krenov to develop blades for his students and I believe imports steel from France. www.hocktools.com I have also bought small spoke shaves from Lee Valley that were made in China to a very high standard of steel Old forged steel blades
Beware of "old steel" this is wonderful stuff hard as good tool steel as it can be, and romantic, however it can be so damned hard it cannot be flattened easily enough to make good contact on a sharpening stone. Those old guys did not have the quality control to be sure that every blade was flat so many are not. Getting an old blade flat is a tough job, once you get it flat then you got a real tool for life but boy that is an effort. [I will talk about flatness later its very important.]
A2 Steel
A2 steel is popular with many modern toolmakers "A-2 steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62 cryogenically treated and double tempered" is the info on L -Ni chisels.They are without doubt made with a tough steel, the toughness enables them to hold an edge for AAAAAAges. But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. Many of my students buy these chisels and I don't discourage them. They are a teeny bit tricky to learn to put an edge on but thats not a problem. I prefer teaching people new to this with a high carbon blade as the burr comes away really sweetly. Once you get the idea its no problem to sharpen these A2 blades.
Woodworking Tools Badly Made
Woodworking tool manufacturers need to be aware that they cannot continue to make more inferior products than their forefathers. Or they cannot do this and maintain a market share. Woodworking Tools should work straight out of the box, its not your fault if that tool don't cut, its theirs and they should be made to do better, all of them.
When we see in our own workshop tools that arrive bent we will tell you. We will put it up on this page. We will shame the makers of these tools until they stop making tools that are impossible to put into use without a week course in tool fettling, a $1000 granite slab and a load of wasted time.
David Savage is an Internationally recognized professional Furniture Maker and Designer with over 30 years experience. David runs a furniture making workshop in Shebbear the beautiful county of Devon in England. David can be contacted through his website. This article was published in 2008 is apart of more comprehensive advice to be found at woodworking hand tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Savage
This page is to help you to avoid wasting money on tools you don't need and spending what you have to spend on tools that are going to do a good job for you. Hopefully you are only going to buy something once. You may as well try and buy the best one you can. Our advice is impartial, we are not linked with any tool manufacturing organisation and we receive no free samples that may blur our judgment or colour our opinion.
Our knowledge is expert, gained over decades of experience of handling these tools and working them ourselves and making our living with them. Our objective is to get the best tools in your hands and show you how to use them properly.
Forged High Carbon Steel
Lets start with the most important part the cutting edge. All your work your effort is through this point. This sharpened steel wedge. You need to have the best steel to save yourself effort and gain more control. Do not worry about manufacturers that claim their steel that holds its edge for soooo.... long. What you really want is SHARP. My experience tells me that "high carbon steel" takes a sharper edge than the A2 kind of steel offered by most modern toolmakers. High carbon steel was at best forged, hammered in a hot state. However modern steels even modern high carbon steels are cold rolled. This gives a"tougher" edge that is lacking a bit of the hardness of genuine forged high carbon steel. Yet it is good steel common in many brands of western chisels as a steel it is acceptable (just). But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. The best forged high carbon steel now seems to come from Britain France and China.
If you can find genuine forged high carbon steel try it. Clifton make a really good genuine forged steel blade "The Victor" plane blade is forged in Sheffield I have these in my planes and replaced an A2 blade from Lie Nielsen to great effect. If you know how to sharpen properly without a silly set of training wheels then it should give you the very best edge most easily. Other sources are blades from Ron Hock he worked with Jim Krenov to develop blades for his students and I believe imports steel from France. www.hocktools.com I have also bought small spoke shaves from Lee Valley that were made in China to a very high standard of steel Old forged steel blades
Beware of "old steel" this is wonderful stuff hard as good tool steel as it can be, and romantic, however it can be so damned hard it cannot be flattened easily enough to make good contact on a sharpening stone. Those old guys did not have the quality control to be sure that every blade was flat so many are not. Getting an old blade flat is a tough job, once you get it flat then you got a real tool for life but boy that is an effort. [I will talk about flatness later its very important.]
A2 Steel
A2 steel is popular with many modern toolmakers "A-2 steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62 cryogenically treated and double tempered" is the info on L -Ni chisels.They are without doubt made with a tough steel, the toughness enables them to hold an edge for AAAAAAges. But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. Many of my students buy these chisels and I don't discourage them. They are a teeny bit tricky to learn to put an edge on but thats not a problem. I prefer teaching people new to this with a high carbon blade as the burr comes away really sweetly. Once you get the idea its no problem to sharpen these A2 blades.
Woodworking Tools Badly Made
Woodworking tool manufacturers need to be aware that they cannot continue to make more inferior products than their forefathers. Or they cannot do this and maintain a market share. Woodworking Tools should work straight out of the box, its not your fault if that tool don't cut, its theirs and they should be made to do better, all of them.
When we see in our own workshop tools that arrive bent we will tell you. We will put it up on this page. We will shame the makers of these tools until they stop making tools that are impossible to put into use without a week course in tool fettling, a $1000 granite slab and a load of wasted time.
David Savage is an Internationally recognized professional Furniture Maker and Designer with over 30 years experience. David runs a furniture making workshop in Shebbear the beautiful county of Devon in England. David can be contacted through his website. This article was published in 2008 is apart of more comprehensive advice to be found at woodworking hand tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Savage
Our knowledge is expert, gained over decades of experience of handling these tools and working them ourselves and making our living with them. Our objective is to get the best tools in your hands and show you how to use them properly.
Forged High Carbon Steel
Lets start with the most important part the cutting edge. All your work your effort is through this point. This sharpened steel wedge. You need to have the best steel to save yourself effort and gain more control. Do not worry about manufacturers that claim their steel that holds its edge for soooo.... long. What you really want is SHARP. My experience tells me that "high carbon steel" takes a sharper edge than the A2 kind of steel offered by most modern toolmakers. High carbon steel was at best forged, hammered in a hot state. However modern steels even modern high carbon steels are cold rolled. This gives a"tougher" edge that is lacking a bit of the hardness of genuine forged high carbon steel. Yet it is good steel common in many brands of western chisels as a steel it is acceptable (just). But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. The best forged high carbon steel now seems to come from Britain France and China.
If you can find genuine forged high carbon steel try it. Clifton make a really good genuine forged steel blade "The Victor" plane blade is forged in Sheffield I have these in my planes and replaced an A2 blade from Lie Nielsen to great effect. If you know how to sharpen properly without a silly set of training wheels then it should give you the very best edge most easily. Other sources are blades from Ron Hock he worked with Jim Krenov to develop blades for his students and I believe imports steel from France. www.hocktools.com I have also bought small spoke shaves from Lee Valley that were made in China to a very high standard of steel Old forged steel blades
Beware of "old steel" this is wonderful stuff hard as good tool steel as it can be, and romantic, however it can be so damned hard it cannot be flattened easily enough to make good contact on a sharpening stone. Those old guys did not have the quality control to be sure that every blade was flat so many are not. Getting an old blade flat is a tough job, once you get it flat then you got a real tool for life but boy that is an effort. [I will talk about flatness later its very important.]
A2 Steel
A2 steel is popular with many modern toolmakers "A-2 steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62 cryogenically treated and double tempered" is the info on L -Ni chisels.They are without doubt made with a tough steel, the toughness enables them to hold an edge for AAAAAAges. But that edge is just a bit too dull for me. Many of my students buy these chisels and I don't discourage them. They are a teeny bit tricky to learn to put an edge on but thats not a problem. I prefer teaching people new to this with a high carbon blade as the burr comes away really sweetly. Once you get the idea its no problem to sharpen these A2 blades.
Woodworking Tools Badly Made
Woodworking tool manufacturers need to be aware that they cannot continue to make more inferior products than their forefathers. Or they cannot do this and maintain a market share. Woodworking Tools should work straight out of the box, its not your fault if that tool don't cut, its theirs and they should be made to do better, all of them.
When we see in our own workshop tools that arrive bent we will tell you. We will put it up on this page. We will shame the makers of these tools until they stop making tools that are impossible to put into use without a week course in tool fettling, a $1000 granite slab and a load of wasted time.
David Savage is an Internationally recognized professional Furniture Maker and Designer with over 30 years experience. David runs a furniture making workshop in Shebbear the beautiful county of Devon in England. David can be contacted through his website. This article was published in 2008 is apart of more comprehensive advice to be found at woodworking hand tools
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Savage
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Bathroom Makeover
One truism in real estate holds: the resale value of one of the most important rooms in a home, is that of the bathroom. A bathroom can be a deal breaker for many sales. These days, with the housing market on rocky grounds, and with home sellers reluctant to dish out thousands into up-scale, expensive renovations, there's a fresh eye looking to the cheaper and less time consuming option of refurbishment.
Refurbishing involves making use of what you already have in a bathroom. Beginning first with the walls. A great way to spruce up and liven up any space, including the bathroom, is with a fresh coast of paint. You'll want to choose a color that ties in the new look and feel of your bathroom- something that'll keep the space light and bright and welcoming.
If you have older bathroom cupboards that are looking somewhat down trodden you might consider re-surfacing them. If they are wood, you might also re-stain them. Another consideration is to paint over the existing surface. In this case, you'll want to make sure you use the appropriate base of paint, and that you've properly treated, or sanded the cupboards before hand. You can then add new hardware to your re-surfaced cupboards. This punctuation will help update the look and feel of your bathroom.
Replacing the existing counter-top can be a great way to modernize your bathroom, and usually as there's little counter space in a bathroom this will not set you back that much. Granite, or granite looking countertops are universally popular, appealing and are easy to fit into many different decorating schemes.
If you can't seem to fit your existing lavender sink, bathtub and toilet ( circa 1965) into your modern refurbishment, you might want to consider replacing these fixtures. Otherwise, you can try to work around these retro elements and tie everything else back into them. The later, will of course be the cheaper way to go, although it may present more of a design challenge. But, set a budget and see how creative you can be with your financial limitations.
Some other important details to attend to are the vanity, the lighting fixtures and the floor. You might consider re-placing all of these, or if you're on a tighter budget think about re-vitalizing them.
Accessorizing once you've re-established the bones of your bathroom, can be great fun. Here, you can really tie everything into your "new" bathroom. Think about adding some color coordinated plush towels and designer soaps. You might also find some nice photographs to have framed and then carefully hang them. Also new window treatments and a shower curtain can work wonders to pull everything together.
There's truly so much possible with any space, and within any budget. So don't hesitate to put your creative energies into a bathroom refurbishment that'll surely boost the resale value of your home.
Refurbishing involves making use of what you already have in a bathroom. Beginning first with the walls. A great way to spruce up and liven up any space, including the bathroom, is with a fresh coast of paint. You'll want to choose a color that ties in the new look and feel of your bathroom- something that'll keep the space light and bright and welcoming.
If you have older bathroom cupboards that are looking somewhat down trodden you might consider re-surfacing them. If they are wood, you might also re-stain them. Another consideration is to paint over the existing surface. In this case, you'll want to make sure you use the appropriate base of paint, and that you've properly treated, or sanded the cupboards before hand. You can then add new hardware to your re-surfaced cupboards. This punctuation will help update the look and feel of your bathroom.
Replacing the existing counter-top can be a great way to modernize your bathroom, and usually as there's little counter space in a bathroom this will not set you back that much. Granite, or granite looking countertops are universally popular, appealing and are easy to fit into many different decorating schemes.
If you can't seem to fit your existing lavender sink, bathtub and toilet ( circa 1965) into your modern refurbishment, you might want to consider replacing these fixtures. Otherwise, you can try to work around these retro elements and tie everything else back into them. The later, will of course be the cheaper way to go, although it may present more of a design challenge. But, set a budget and see how creative you can be with your financial limitations.
Some other important details to attend to are the vanity, the lighting fixtures and the floor. You might consider re-placing all of these, or if you're on a tighter budget think about re-vitalizing them.
Accessorizing once you've re-established the bones of your bathroom, can be great fun. Here, you can really tie everything into your "new" bathroom. Think about adding some color coordinated plush towels and designer soaps. You might also find some nice photographs to have framed and then carefully hang them. Also new window treatments and a shower curtain can work wonders to pull everything together.
There's truly so much possible with any space, and within any budget. So don't hesitate to put your creative energies into a bathroom refurbishment that'll surely boost the resale value of your home.
What Causes Lights to Dim
There are many reasons why lights dim. The first reason could be that the lights are on a circuit with a larger appliance such as a refrigerator or air conditioner. When the appliance kicks in, the lights may dim because the appliance took a lot of power to start. You should have a dedicated circuit breaker for such appliances that require more power to start. If your wiring is not equipped to handle the load of electricity your home needs it could result in dimming lights. This is because the existing wiring has a large current need and the voltage can drop if the wiring has too much resistance.
If the lights get brighter and dimmer, you might have a corroded, broken or loose neutral wire. If this happens, you could be pushing 240 into the 120 outlets for a second. This is a more serious problem and should be corrected immediately by an experienced electrician. If your lights dim or flicker, you need to check for frayed wiring or loose connections. Another reason that lights dim is if there is something wired on the same circuit that is faulty. For instance, if your lights dim when you start the vacuum cleaner, it may be drawing too much power because of a faulty or wearing motor.
If you notice your lights are dimming, you need to find the source of the problem. It could be the light bulb itself or it could be something more serious. Inspect wiring and observe appliances while turning on and running. If you have not found the problem yourself you should have an electrician or an electrical contractor come and inspect the wiring and appliances. Electricians do have more ways of searching for electrical problems. An electrician will troubleshoot the wiring and circuitry before suggesting what the problem is as well as what has to be done to correct it.
If the lights get brighter and dimmer, you might have a corroded, broken or loose neutral wire. If this happens, you could be pushing 240 into the 120 outlets for a second. This is a more serious problem and should be corrected immediately by an experienced electrician. If your lights dim or flicker, you need to check for frayed wiring or loose connections. Another reason that lights dim is if there is something wired on the same circuit that is faulty. For instance, if your lights dim when you start the vacuum cleaner, it may be drawing too much power because of a faulty or wearing motor.
If you notice your lights are dimming, you need to find the source of the problem. It could be the light bulb itself or it could be something more serious. Inspect wiring and observe appliances while turning on and running. If you have not found the problem yourself you should have an electrician or an electrical contractor come and inspect the wiring and appliances. Electricians do have more ways of searching for electrical problems. An electrician will troubleshoot the wiring and circuitry before suggesting what the problem is as well as what has to be done to correct it.
Environmentally Friendly & Affordable Home Improvements
The environmentally friendly and affordable way to change to the look of your living room with made to measure sofa and chair covers.
It is a fact that the success of recycling is of utmost importance to our society and to make it really work, everyone needs to participate and do their bit. With kerbside recycling schemes being rolled-out across the UK, we are all becoming more aware of the need to partake in the three 'R's: Reduce, Reuse and Recycle.
When buying new living room furniture, whether it is cheap or expensive, the wood needs to come from somewhere and more likely than not it has to be shipped. Which not only increases our carbon footprint through transportation and declining trees to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen but also contributes to environmental problems caused by the effects of deforestation.
So then what do we do with the old furniture? We throw it out of course!
Mountains of waste are being dumped in landfills every year. Though we are all pretty well educated in the processes of recycling small items like aluminium, glass, and paper, how many of us realise just how easy it is to recycle larger items - like a sofa or armchair.
Of course not everyone is wholly concerned with environmental issues, cost can also be a contributing factor.
Many of us would like to change our homes the same way we change our seasonal wardrobes, but few of us can actually afford to. A recent survey (Carried out by Koan Ltd) to cast light on people's interior tastes revealed that 60% of people could only afford to redecorate their homes every 2-5 years, even though the same percentage said that their tastes actually changed from year to year.
Luckily now, not only is there a more affordable, stylish and easy solution to instantly change the look of your home, but there is an environmentally friendly one too, enabling you to 'reduce, reuse and recycle'. Rather than spending a fortune on this season's fleetingly fashionable designs, or putting up with a shameful suite, you can give your piece of furniture a stunning new look using a unique service: Made-to-Measure Furniture Covers.
What also came out in the survey was peoples perceptions of loose covers. Many still think that ill-fitting floral stretchy fabric only your Gran used to own is all you can achieve. Made to Measure Loose Covers have come along way since the mid-fifties, there are now many modern and contemporary designs in beautiful chenille and cotton fabrics to update any style of interior decor.
There are even now covers for leather furniture that can mimic the new leather and luxury chenille combination designs coming from all the major furniture retailers, so your tired leather furniture can be transformed into the cutting edge looks of today.
It is a fact that the success of recycling is of utmost importance to our society and to make it really work, everyone needs to participate and do their bit. With kerbside recycling schemes being rolled-out across the UK, we are all becoming more aware of the need to partake in the three 'R's: Reduce, Reuse and Recycle.
When buying new living room furniture, whether it is cheap or expensive, the wood needs to come from somewhere and more likely than not it has to be shipped. Which not only increases our carbon footprint through transportation and declining trees to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen but also contributes to environmental problems caused by the effects of deforestation.
So then what do we do with the old furniture? We throw it out of course!
Mountains of waste are being dumped in landfills every year. Though we are all pretty well educated in the processes of recycling small items like aluminium, glass, and paper, how many of us realise just how easy it is to recycle larger items - like a sofa or armchair.
Of course not everyone is wholly concerned with environmental issues, cost can also be a contributing factor.
Many of us would like to change our homes the same way we change our seasonal wardrobes, but few of us can actually afford to. A recent survey (Carried out by Koan Ltd) to cast light on people's interior tastes revealed that 60% of people could only afford to redecorate their homes every 2-5 years, even though the same percentage said that their tastes actually changed from year to year.
Luckily now, not only is there a more affordable, stylish and easy solution to instantly change the look of your home, but there is an environmentally friendly one too, enabling you to 'reduce, reuse and recycle'. Rather than spending a fortune on this season's fleetingly fashionable designs, or putting up with a shameful suite, you can give your piece of furniture a stunning new look using a unique service: Made-to-Measure Furniture Covers.
What also came out in the survey was peoples perceptions of loose covers. Many still think that ill-fitting floral stretchy fabric only your Gran used to own is all you can achieve. Made to Measure Loose Covers have come along way since the mid-fifties, there are now many modern and contemporary designs in beautiful chenille and cotton fabrics to update any style of interior decor.
There are even now covers for leather furniture that can mimic the new leather and luxury chenille combination designs coming from all the major furniture retailers, so your tired leather furniture can be transformed into the cutting edge looks of today.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Mobile Home Care
Renovating manufactured homes or mobile homes often presents new challenges not found in other types of homes. Here are some tips for you to consider when it is time to fix yours.
One of the advantages to living in a manufactured or mobile home is that there are no support beams to worry about. There are no load-bearing walls inside the structure. The roof of a manufactured home is generally supported by the outer walls. So if you need space in your manufactured home, simply removing an interior wall can work wonders. Please note that you may have to renovate other walls so they can provide additional support for the outer walls but this fix should be easily accomplished.
If you do remove the wall, be careful with the surrounding floors and ceilings. Floors in manufactured homes are not thick and may have been weakened from exposure to the outdoors. If you remove an interior wall, you may find wildlife investigating your digs as well. So be sure to fill in any small holes to prevent animals or insects from moving in. This includes nail holes, screw holes and any tiny holes that resulted from taking out the wall. You will need to keep an eye out for critters that may have wandered in.
Another great way to add space is to add a porch. This is an easy project but you must remember to build it as a free-standing unit. Do not try to incorporate it into your manufactured home's structure. Your home was not designed to support an additional porch and it may not be able to bear the additional weight.
If you need additional storage space, consider adding a shed. These are quite durable and can be used for indoor and outdoor seasonal items. Check to make sure the shed is allowed where you live.
Because the space under the flooring is subjected to the elements, it is always a good idea to inspect that space from time to time. Make sure everything is in good repair and be sure to make necessary repairs in a timely manner. Also be sure your home is ready for sudden storms and keep the names of reputable contractors on hand in case disaster strikes your area.
Be sure to plan ahead for any renovation project. Make sure you have the money, the time and the ability to finish it. If you don't have the money, wait until you do. If you don't have the time, ask a friend to help. If you don't have the ability, hire a professional who is familiar with working on manufactured homes. This is your home we're talking about. You want a job that is done right.
Manufactured homes are wonderfully affordable housing that will you will enjoy for years, if you take the time and effort to keep them up.
Greg Hansward regularly edits news on areas dealing with kitchen center islands. You can have a look at his comments on pictures of kitchen islands and kitchen island designs at http://www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_K._Hansward
One of the advantages to living in a manufactured or mobile home is that there are no support beams to worry about. There are no load-bearing walls inside the structure. The roof of a manufactured home is generally supported by the outer walls. So if you need space in your manufactured home, simply removing an interior wall can work wonders. Please note that you may have to renovate other walls so they can provide additional support for the outer walls but this fix should be easily accomplished.
If you do remove the wall, be careful with the surrounding floors and ceilings. Floors in manufactured homes are not thick and may have been weakened from exposure to the outdoors. If you remove an interior wall, you may find wildlife investigating your digs as well. So be sure to fill in any small holes to prevent animals or insects from moving in. This includes nail holes, screw holes and any tiny holes that resulted from taking out the wall. You will need to keep an eye out for critters that may have wandered in.
Another great way to add space is to add a porch. This is an easy project but you must remember to build it as a free-standing unit. Do not try to incorporate it into your manufactured home's structure. Your home was not designed to support an additional porch and it may not be able to bear the additional weight.
If you need additional storage space, consider adding a shed. These are quite durable and can be used for indoor and outdoor seasonal items. Check to make sure the shed is allowed where you live.
Because the space under the flooring is subjected to the elements, it is always a good idea to inspect that space from time to time. Make sure everything is in good repair and be sure to make necessary repairs in a timely manner. Also be sure your home is ready for sudden storms and keep the names of reputable contractors on hand in case disaster strikes your area.
Be sure to plan ahead for any renovation project. Make sure you have the money, the time and the ability to finish it. If you don't have the money, wait until you do. If you don't have the time, ask a friend to help. If you don't have the ability, hire a professional who is familiar with working on manufactured homes. This is your home we're talking about. You want a job that is done right.
Manufactured homes are wonderfully affordable housing that will you will enjoy for years, if you take the time and effort to keep them up.
Greg Hansward regularly edits news on areas dealing with kitchen center islands. You can have a look at his comments on pictures of kitchen islands and kitchen island designs at http://www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_K._Hansward
Mowing To Success!
Remember that Spring & Summer are Grass Cutting seasons so you want to have your Mower in "Tip Top" Shape. Follow these simple steps:
- Always empty out old gas and put in New with a Gas Additive
- Check or Change your Oil, always put in Fresh.
- Change your Spark Plug(it's a $2.00 Cheap Fix)
- Check you Blade to make sure it's not worn or bent,if so get a New One.
Follow these steps to Mowing Success!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Replacing Door Hinges
Hinges, thank goodness, are relatively simple items. With a few handyman's tools, you could be replacing them before you know it. The existing hinge just has to be unscrewed and taken off to leave the way clear for the new hinge to be screwed on. Then take your door, window, lid or whatever and connect it back to where it came from.
Having said this, and to avoid grief and misery (like having to get back in the car, drive back to the store, dig out the receipt and start over), you do need to know an important fact. You need to know if the hinge that you require is left-handed or right-handed. Without this important information, you are doomed to a guessing game with a 50% chance of losing or winning, but really, more of losing.
So how, on a practical level, do you find out if you need to buy left-handed or right-handed hinges? Listen up. Go to the door, window or lid and grab the handle. Open the door (or window, or lid). If you grabbed the handle with your left hand and the door opened, either towards you or away from you, then you are dealing with a left-handed hinge. Note this down carefully; left-handed hinge.
However, if you grabbed the handle with your right hand and still managed to open the door, window or lid, then you are face to face with a right-handed hinge. In this case, put a line through left-handed hinge. Write "right-handed hinge".
You are now ahead of the hinge game. If you want to learn even more about these items, you can use Internet search engines to dig up fascinating and little known facts on hinges. An example of such facts concerns the butt hinge. Not only does the butt hinge exist (really), but it is also available in two different varieties, the fixed pin version and the loose pin version. Beware of the trap that is so innocently being sprung before you. The fixed pin butt hinge means that you cannot remove the pin. The loose pin butt hinge means that you can remove the pin.
So if your idea of a good time is to repeatedly take a door off of its hinges before putting it back in place, then the loose pin butt hinge may be the ideal companion for you.
Other types of hinges include the knuckle hinge. Its advantages are that it is both strong and decorative. It makes a good hinge for an outside door which is typically heavier than an inside door. In addition to this it gives your outside door pizzazz and makes the neighbors gawk.
Spring-loaded ones will keep your doors (windows, lids, etc.) shut. This will give your doors a mind of their own and keep next door's cat out of your kitchen. Remember that some of them have almost become fashion accessories, at least within a house. Select each hinge with care, so as to match color, material and function with doors and decoration.
Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops that offer both products and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make your space both functional and beautiful. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous indoor area by charming cabinet hinges, handsome door hinges and strong hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
Having said this, and to avoid grief and misery (like having to get back in the car, drive back to the store, dig out the receipt and start over), you do need to know an important fact. You need to know if the hinge that you require is left-handed or right-handed. Without this important information, you are doomed to a guessing game with a 50% chance of losing or winning, but really, more of losing.
So how, on a practical level, do you find out if you need to buy left-handed or right-handed hinges? Listen up. Go to the door, window or lid and grab the handle. Open the door (or window, or lid). If you grabbed the handle with your left hand and the door opened, either towards you or away from you, then you are dealing with a left-handed hinge. Note this down carefully; left-handed hinge.
However, if you grabbed the handle with your right hand and still managed to open the door, window or lid, then you are face to face with a right-handed hinge. In this case, put a line through left-handed hinge. Write "right-handed hinge".
You are now ahead of the hinge game. If you want to learn even more about these items, you can use Internet search engines to dig up fascinating and little known facts on hinges. An example of such facts concerns the butt hinge. Not only does the butt hinge exist (really), but it is also available in two different varieties, the fixed pin version and the loose pin version. Beware of the trap that is so innocently being sprung before you. The fixed pin butt hinge means that you cannot remove the pin. The loose pin butt hinge means that you can remove the pin.
So if your idea of a good time is to repeatedly take a door off of its hinges before putting it back in place, then the loose pin butt hinge may be the ideal companion for you.
Other types of hinges include the knuckle hinge. Its advantages are that it is both strong and decorative. It makes a good hinge for an outside door which is typically heavier than an inside door. In addition to this it gives your outside door pizzazz and makes the neighbors gawk.
Spring-loaded ones will keep your doors (windows, lids, etc.) shut. This will give your doors a mind of their own and keep next door's cat out of your kitchen. Remember that some of them have almost become fashion accessories, at least within a house. Select each hinge with care, so as to match color, material and function with doors and decoration.
Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops that offer both products and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make your space both functional and beautiful. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous indoor area by charming cabinet hinges, handsome door hinges and strong hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
7 Common Plumbing Problems
7 Common Plumbing Problems and Fixes:
Many homes, even brand new homes, can have plumbing problems. However, instead of getting a plumber involved, it is possible to fix many of these plumbing problems without professional help. Here are seven common plumbing problems, as well as how to fix them:
Lack of hot water Plumbing problems related to water temperature always lead to your water heater. You might be able to turn up the thermostat on your water heater. However, your water heater may be clogged with calcium deposits, which limits the amount of hot water it can produce. In this event, it is possible to remove these deposits from most water heaters. Replacing the heating elements is can also restore hot water to your home. Another possibility is that the water heater is beyond repair and must be replaced.
Leaky faucet A leaky faucet is one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix. The source of the leak is usually a bad seal in the faucet handle. Simply disassemble the faucet, replace the worn out part (usually a rubber gasket), and put it back together.
Clogged Toilet A clogged toilet is among the list of common but easily solved, plumbing problems. Most clogged toilets can be fixed by plunging. However, if plunging the toilet does not alleviate the clog, serious plumbing problems could be the cause.
Toilet Does Not Flush Everything If your toilet is not clogged, but does not flush everything, there may not be enough water to carry everything away. In the tank behind the toilet bowl, there is a float that controls how much water is used. Making the float sit higher so that more water is used should cure plumbing problems related to a weak flush.
Slow Draining Sinks Most home remedies for slow draining sinks involve pouring some kind of solution down the drain to loosen deposits that slow the flow of water. Remedies for these plumbing problems include solutions from store bought drain cleaners to bleach or hot vinegar. Another way to solve and prevent these types of plumbing problems is to fill all the sinks with water and drain them all at once. The pressure caused by this volume of water can help push deposits out of your pipes.
Pipes under the Sink Leak Before you tackle these plumbing problems, make sure the fixture with the leak is not clogged. If there is no clog, find the source of the leak. In the event that the leak is coming from the juncture of two pipes, try to tighten it. If this does not work, take the leaky section apart and check for stripped or damaged threads. Replacing a damaged part may be necessary, but wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will eliminate most leaky joints. However, if there is a crack in a pipe or appliance component, replacement is usually the only option.
Toilet Leaks from the Base A toilet leak, if it is in fact coming from the base, can usually be fixed by replacing the wax ring that fits between the toilet and the floor. This can be relatively simply to do, unless the floor is uneven or something else prevents solid contact between the toilet and the wax ring.
Dealing with Common Plumbing Problems Although fixing plumbing problems is not usually fun, you can save yourself a lot of money by not calling a plumber. Even if you do decide to get a plumber involved, diagnosing the problem can shorten the process and ensure that a plumber does not try to fix anything that is not broken.
Written by Henry James. For information on finding a licensed and experienced Melbourne plumber, please visit http://www.melbourneplumber.com.au/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_James
Many homes, even brand new homes, can have plumbing problems. However, instead of getting a plumber involved, it is possible to fix many of these plumbing problems without professional help. Here are seven common plumbing problems, as well as how to fix them:
Lack of hot water Plumbing problems related to water temperature always lead to your water heater. You might be able to turn up the thermostat on your water heater. However, your water heater may be clogged with calcium deposits, which limits the amount of hot water it can produce. In this event, it is possible to remove these deposits from most water heaters. Replacing the heating elements is can also restore hot water to your home. Another possibility is that the water heater is beyond repair and must be replaced.
Leaky faucet A leaky faucet is one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix. The source of the leak is usually a bad seal in the faucet handle. Simply disassemble the faucet, replace the worn out part (usually a rubber gasket), and put it back together.
Clogged Toilet A clogged toilet is among the list of common but easily solved, plumbing problems. Most clogged toilets can be fixed by plunging. However, if plunging the toilet does not alleviate the clog, serious plumbing problems could be the cause.
Toilet Does Not Flush Everything If your toilet is not clogged, but does not flush everything, there may not be enough water to carry everything away. In the tank behind the toilet bowl, there is a float that controls how much water is used. Making the float sit higher so that more water is used should cure plumbing problems related to a weak flush.
Slow Draining Sinks Most home remedies for slow draining sinks involve pouring some kind of solution down the drain to loosen deposits that slow the flow of water. Remedies for these plumbing problems include solutions from store bought drain cleaners to bleach or hot vinegar. Another way to solve and prevent these types of plumbing problems is to fill all the sinks with water and drain them all at once. The pressure caused by this volume of water can help push deposits out of your pipes.
Pipes under the Sink Leak Before you tackle these plumbing problems, make sure the fixture with the leak is not clogged. If there is no clog, find the source of the leak. In the event that the leak is coming from the juncture of two pipes, try to tighten it. If this does not work, take the leaky section apart and check for stripped or damaged threads. Replacing a damaged part may be necessary, but wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will eliminate most leaky joints. However, if there is a crack in a pipe or appliance component, replacement is usually the only option.
Toilet Leaks from the Base A toilet leak, if it is in fact coming from the base, can usually be fixed by replacing the wax ring that fits between the toilet and the floor. This can be relatively simply to do, unless the floor is uneven or something else prevents solid contact between the toilet and the wax ring.
Dealing with Common Plumbing Problems Although fixing plumbing problems is not usually fun, you can save yourself a lot of money by not calling a plumber. Even if you do decide to get a plumber involved, diagnosing the problem can shorten the process and ensure that a plumber does not try to fix anything that is not broken.
Written by Henry James. For information on finding a licensed and experienced Melbourne plumber, please visit http://www.melbourneplumber.com.au/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_James
Top 10 Home Improvement Mistakes
Great Article! Really informative, being in the business see these things everyday.
Although a major home improvement can prove to be a rewarding project, it can also turn your life upside down if you are not prepared. I've heard of some worst case scenarios involving people who have lost their homes because they got in over their heads and others who ended up with incomplete project nightmares that cost them thousands of dollars to correct.
Following is a list of the top ten mistakes homeowners make when undertaking home improvement projects and tips on how to avoid them:
1. References. Do enough research and background checking to satisfy you. Walk away if the contractor is not willing to provide references from former clients. Do an online search of the contractor's business and personal name. Check with local courts for judgments filed against them and with the Better Business Bureau for any consumer complaints. Look at previous work completed (in person). Check with material suppliers since a good contractor will have a long-standing relationship with suppliers. Contact other contractors who have worked with them before. Check their credit standing - contractors with bad credit are often disorganized and don't manage their business well. Inquire about insurance, workers compensation and licensing.
2. Project management. You need one person to help you manage your project. Most issues occur when inexperienced homeowners try to manage their own project. A project manager is a single point of contact between the homeowner and other contractors and is responsible for scheduling and workflow.
3. Contracts. Make sure your contract is solid. As obvious as this may sound, failure to get a contract or signing an incomplete contract is one of the most common mistakes. Put all the details in writing - never take someone's word for it. Following are items that should be included in the contract: (1) the full name of the company and the person you are doing business with and their contact information, (2) an addendum consisting of the complete set of plans, (3) an addendum consisting of the materials to be used, (4) the price of the goods or services, (5) the manner and terms of payment, (6) a description of the work to be performed, (7) a start date and an estimated completion date, (8) a default clause in the event either party defaults that specifies how damages will be calculated, (9) warranties and (10) signatures.
4. Warranties. Make sure you receive a warranty with detailed terms and conditions. Don't accept a contract that simply states that all work is guaranteed. There is often confusion as to who is responsible for the warranty. Get the following in writing: (1) Who is backing the warranty? (2) What is covered and what is not covered? (3) How long is the warranty valid for? (4) What can void the warranty? (5) What is the process for placing a warranty claim?
5. Changes. During the project, you may change your mind on certain design aspects which may require more or less work from contractors. It is critical to document every change order and note the exact cost or savings. Changes should be signed and dated by all parties.
6. Plans. Get a clear description on what will be done, how it will be done and the materials to be used. For smaller projects, contractors can draw up plans. For larger and more complicated projects, find a qualified designer or architect. And, for example, if load-bearing walls will be altered, find an engineer to review the structural side of the plans.
7. Costs. Estimating costs tends to be a big problem because people do not make realistic comparisons. Homeowners may hire the contractor with the lowest price but that price may turn out to be much higher in the end. "Allowance items" tend to be the main culprit in estimating costs. For example, contractors may give you allowances for flooring, lighting or hardware that are artificially low. The bid looks enticing until you examine it closely. Request a line item for straight costs on materials and labor since some contractors mark up materials and labor so they can make a profit on it. Ask the contractor to pass along costs to you and to add a line item for their fee. This creates a more clear and honest assessment of the job.
8. Financing and payments. Before signing the contract, figure out how you are going to pay for your home improvement project. Make sure you maintain control of the money - don't let your project manager or contractor control the money. This sounds obvious but many homeowners allow contractors to make draws on construction accounts only to realize that the draws were not used for the intended purpose. What does this mean? It means your contractor scored a new truck, you're out of money and the project is incomplete. Tips: (1) don't pay a lot of money up front, (2) pay when materials are delivered, (3) pay when work begins and (4) pay as work progresses. Pay only after work and materials are inspected and approved.
9. Inspections. Don't wait until your home improvement project is almost complete to do the inspection. Plan phased inspections along the way so work doesn't need to be re-done. Don't rely on city and county building inspectors to protect you since the codes they enforce don't guarantee quality (and they often miss things too!). Before paying for work, hire an independent inspector to do periodic phase inspections.
10. Materials. Stick with products that are tried and true. This rule especially holds true when it comes to windows, doors, framing materials, roofing products, concrete coverings, epoxy floors, plumbing, light fixtures and electronics. You don't want to be the guinea pig that test runs the supposed latest and greatest new products or materials only to find out that these items don't last or turn out to be fire hazards!
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com. At http://www.myguidesusa.com/, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com.
Find home improvement tips and resources at http://homeimprovement.myguidesusa.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hilary_Basile
Although a major home improvement can prove to be a rewarding project, it can also turn your life upside down if you are not prepared. I've heard of some worst case scenarios involving people who have lost their homes because they got in over their heads and others who ended up with incomplete project nightmares that cost them thousands of dollars to correct.
Following is a list of the top ten mistakes homeowners make when undertaking home improvement projects and tips on how to avoid them:
1. References. Do enough research and background checking to satisfy you. Walk away if the contractor is not willing to provide references from former clients. Do an online search of the contractor's business and personal name. Check with local courts for judgments filed against them and with the Better Business Bureau for any consumer complaints. Look at previous work completed (in person). Check with material suppliers since a good contractor will have a long-standing relationship with suppliers. Contact other contractors who have worked with them before. Check their credit standing - contractors with bad credit are often disorganized and don't manage their business well. Inquire about insurance, workers compensation and licensing.
2. Project management. You need one person to help you manage your project. Most issues occur when inexperienced homeowners try to manage their own project. A project manager is a single point of contact between the homeowner and other contractors and is responsible for scheduling and workflow.
3. Contracts. Make sure your contract is solid. As obvious as this may sound, failure to get a contract or signing an incomplete contract is one of the most common mistakes. Put all the details in writing - never take someone's word for it. Following are items that should be included in the contract: (1) the full name of the company and the person you are doing business with and their contact information, (2) an addendum consisting of the complete set of plans, (3) an addendum consisting of the materials to be used, (4) the price of the goods or services, (5) the manner and terms of payment, (6) a description of the work to be performed, (7) a start date and an estimated completion date, (8) a default clause in the event either party defaults that specifies how damages will be calculated, (9) warranties and (10) signatures.
4. Warranties. Make sure you receive a warranty with detailed terms and conditions. Don't accept a contract that simply states that all work is guaranteed. There is often confusion as to who is responsible for the warranty. Get the following in writing: (1) Who is backing the warranty? (2) What is covered and what is not covered? (3) How long is the warranty valid for? (4) What can void the warranty? (5) What is the process for placing a warranty claim?
5. Changes. During the project, you may change your mind on certain design aspects which may require more or less work from contractors. It is critical to document every change order and note the exact cost or savings. Changes should be signed and dated by all parties.
6. Plans. Get a clear description on what will be done, how it will be done and the materials to be used. For smaller projects, contractors can draw up plans. For larger and more complicated projects, find a qualified designer or architect. And, for example, if load-bearing walls will be altered, find an engineer to review the structural side of the plans.
7. Costs. Estimating costs tends to be a big problem because people do not make realistic comparisons. Homeowners may hire the contractor with the lowest price but that price may turn out to be much higher in the end. "Allowance items" tend to be the main culprit in estimating costs. For example, contractors may give you allowances for flooring, lighting or hardware that are artificially low. The bid looks enticing until you examine it closely. Request a line item for straight costs on materials and labor since some contractors mark up materials and labor so they can make a profit on it. Ask the contractor to pass along costs to you and to add a line item for their fee. This creates a more clear and honest assessment of the job.
8. Financing and payments. Before signing the contract, figure out how you are going to pay for your home improvement project. Make sure you maintain control of the money - don't let your project manager or contractor control the money. This sounds obvious but many homeowners allow contractors to make draws on construction accounts only to realize that the draws were not used for the intended purpose. What does this mean? It means your contractor scored a new truck, you're out of money and the project is incomplete. Tips: (1) don't pay a lot of money up front, (2) pay when materials are delivered, (3) pay when work begins and (4) pay as work progresses. Pay only after work and materials are inspected and approved.
9. Inspections. Don't wait until your home improvement project is almost complete to do the inspection. Plan phased inspections along the way so work doesn't need to be re-done. Don't rely on city and county building inspectors to protect you since the codes they enforce don't guarantee quality (and they often miss things too!). Before paying for work, hire an independent inspector to do periodic phase inspections.
10. Materials. Stick with products that are tried and true. This rule especially holds true when it comes to windows, doors, framing materials, roofing products, concrete coverings, epoxy floors, plumbing, light fixtures and electronics. You don't want to be the guinea pig that test runs the supposed latest and greatest new products or materials only to find out that these items don't last or turn out to be fire hazards!
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com. At http://www.myguidesusa.com/, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com.
Find home improvement tips and resources at http://homeimprovement.myguidesusa.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hilary_Basile
Check out The Tip of the Day!
I've added a Tip of the day to My Blog so you can stay informed and be able to "show off"
to your friends the little Tips & Tricks that I'll be bringing you.
So keep your eye out for it!
to your friends the little Tips & Tricks that I'll be bringing you.
So keep your eye out for it!
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