Friday, June 20, 2008
Patching Drywall
When Patching a hole in your Drywall , (depending how big it) is always use Drywall Tape. Make sure to cover the hole with Joint Compound first and then embed the tape in the compound. It will take 2 0r 3 applications before you sand & paint. If the hole is bigger (12"x 12" etc..) then you will have to make a Blow Out Patch. This requires that you place pieces of wood into the hole along the edges,screw them in place,then add a piece of drywall cut same size as the hole & screw that in place also. Then it's just a matter of taping & mudding the hole,sanding, then painting & your projects complete!
Monday, June 16, 2008
My AMAZON "How To" Store!
I am really happy to tell everyone that I've just opened a Amazon Book Store for the Mr. Fix-It's in all of you. This store is full of Great How-To Books that I've read and used many times and have given me a wealth of knowledge over the years. My store also has Great Prices on these books as well so you save $$$ while you gain the knowledge to do these Home Repairs yourself, so please visit my store and I know you won't be disappointed. Check it out at:
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Building a Fence for Privacy
Living in the city has its advantages of course but you have to deal with neighbors. One great method to keep good relations with a neighbor is to have a fence between your yards when it comes to living in a tight neighborhood. This is true in most cases. However, there are times when you can have big problems by building a fence, and this was something I witnessed first hand. It wasn't my yard, as I was a renter, but it did affect my life because I lived in the house in question.
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
Buying Power Drills
Take the hard work out of DO-IT-YOURSELF with a good drill. It could be on of the most diverse and very useful tools you buy.Proper drill will save time during your work and make easy drilling holes into metal, wood, concrete etc., as well as drive screws and bolts.It is useful getting acquaint with a drill's main feature before you buy, so you could choose the best one.I. Types
Standard Drills
Hammer Drills
Screw Guns II. Cordless drills
Cord or Cordless? Pros and Cons
The main features
Power and Battery III. Drill Shapes IV. Variable speed V. Torque VI. Other features to look out for VII. Power rating VIII. Hammer action IX. Chuck type
TYPES
Standard Drills
Standard electric rotary drills designed for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines will cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drills have a chuck which will only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.
Hammer Drills
The hammer drill is similar to a standard electric drill, with the exception that it is provided with a hammer action for drilling masonry. The hammer action may be engaged or disengaged as required.
The hammer action is cheap but delicate. It uses two cam plates to make the chuck accelerate towards the work. However because of the relative masses of the chuck+bit and the remainder of the drill the energy transfer is inefficient and will fail to penetrate harder materials and vibrates the operators hand. The cams wear quickly.
Compare this to a rotary/pneumatic hammer drill where just the bit is accelerated to the work. They have relatively little vibration and penetrate most building materials. It feels as though the work is sucking the bit inwards.
Large cam hammer drills, especially transverse motor, are crude in their action. The energy delivered in each stroke is highly variable. The cheaper drill will smash its way through the work and vibrate the surroundings, this can cause lots of collateral damage. A good SDS drill will gently pulverize the work material just in front of the bit and glide into the hole without any "fuss".
However there is a big difference in cost. In the UK typically £12-40 for a cam hammer and £100 up for a rotary/pneumatic. For light DIY use they are fine.
Screw Guns
These Electric Screwdrivers are made specifically for applying screws and hexagon headed Tek Screw to plasterboard and metal cladding. The drywall screws are designed purely for plasterboard fixing. The electric screwdriver uses a specially designed chuck to self guide the specifically designed fixings that feature widely spaced threads to ensure good grip. This is achieved by the unique collar on this type of electric screwdriver.
Some electric screwdrivers are able to use Collated Screws which provides auto-loading of screws which are loaded into the tool on a strip which is then fed onto the bit.
Drill press
A drill press (also known as pedestal drill, pillar drill, or bench drill) is a fixed style of drill that may be mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The head has a set of handles (usually 3) radiating from a central hub that, when turned, move the spindle and chuck vertically, parallel to the axis of the column. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and re-clamp the table in position. The table may also be offset from the spindle's axis and in some cases rotated to a position perpendicular to the column. The size of a drill press is typically measured in terms of swing. Swing is defined as twice the throat distance, which is the distance from the center of the spindle to the closest edge of the pillar. For example, a 16-inch drill press will have an 8-inch throat distance.
A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:
less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.
the table allows a vise or clamp to position and lock the work in place making the operation secure. the angle of the spindle is fixed in relation to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and repetitively.
Speed change is achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement. Some drill presses add a third stepped pulley to increase the speed range. Modern drill presses can, however, use a variable-speed motor in conjunction with the stepped-pulley system; a few older drill presses, on the other hand, have a sort of traction-based continuously variable transmission for wide ranges of chuck speeds instead, which can be changed while the machine is running.
CORDLESS DRILLS
A cordless drill is a type of electric drill which uses rechargeable batteries. These drills are available with similar features to an AC mains-powered drill. They are available in the hammer drill configuration and most also have a clutch setting which allows them to be used for driving screws.
For continuous use, a worker will have one or more spare battery packs charging while drilling, so that he or she can quickly swap them, instead of having to wait several hours during recharges.
Early cordless drills started with interchangeable 7.2V battery packs, and over the years the battery voltage has been increased to 18V, and higher, allowing these tools to produce as much torque as many mains-powered drills. The drawback of most current models is the use of nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, which develop a memory effect or internal short circuits due to dendrite growth, severely limiting their useful life, and posing a hazardous materials disposal problem. Drill manufacturers are now introducing lithium ion batteries, most notably DEWALT.
The main advantages are lack of memory effect and very short charging time. Instead of charging a tool for an hour to get 20 minutes of use, 20 minutes of charge can run the tool for an hour. Lithium-ion batteries also have a constant discharge rate. The power output remains constant until the battery is depleted, something that nickel-cadmium batteries also lack, and which makes the tool much more versatile. Lithium-ion batteries also hold a charge for a significantly longer time than nickel-cadmium batteries, about 2 years if not used, vs. around 4 months for a nickel-cadmium battery.
CORD OR CORDLESS. Pros and ConsI. Corded Drills
Pack the most power
Most durable
Can handle mixing mud, boring holes, and drilling concrete
Usually unnecessary for most homeowners II. Cordless Power Drills
Easily transported and used
Less power and run time restricted by battery life
Recharging may take several hours
Higher voltage means more power, but also more weight
Newer technology has improved cordless drills; most are now strong enough for many tasks previously out of their league Cordless drill:
Lightweight, easy to handle and comfortable to use
Safer to work with as there's no trailing cord
More versatile - can access more tricky to get to places and can be used anywhere, there's no restriction on distance or electricity supply
Batteries can be interchanged for continuous power
Some models double up as an electric screwdriver
A 'quick charge' feature is handy if you've forgotten to charge it in advance
Not as much power as a corded model and has limited battery life
You need to remember to charge the battery before use
Some are not capable of drilling through masonryCorded drill:
More power and torque
Always ready to use and provides continuous power
May have extra features not available on a cordless model
Models tend to be heavier than cordless models
The cord can be restrictive and intrusive
You're reliant on a nearby electricity socket
THE MAIN FEATURES
Top 10 points to look for:
Speed-range switch, generally 2 ratios, both high and low, normally selected by changing mechanical gearing. High is for drilling applications whilst low range is reserved for driving screws. Look out for the widest range between the two settingsLook for a reliable motor, some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some bosch models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are uning your cordless drill on a daily basis. Forward/reverse switch: This should be easy to operate with either your thumb or trigger finger - again this is a standard feature but look for one which is easy to operate. Hand grip: Texture and contoured, should aid your grip, some Porter and Cable cordless drills have padded grips which you can choose to match your hand size - useful after an 8 hour shift. Voltage: a higher voltage means more drilling power but it can also mean more weight - don't buy a drill you won't need, 12 volt drills are powerful enough for most DIY users, bigger models just weigh more so think carefully about what you will be using the drill for. Batteries: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries tend to be better because they deliver more charge and last longer.Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping the drill, Variable speed offers the greatest control. Chuck jaws: The maximum chuck capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Although some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits, these have a 1/2inch chuck. Keyless chuck: Virtually a standard fitting today, hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws. The keyless chuck can grip any screwdriver bit or drill bit securely. Clutch: Setting the clutch gives you greater control of the depth to which screws are driven.
POWER AND BATTERY
Batteries: A cordless drill is only as good as its battery. Make sure the battery has enough run time to help you power through all your tasks. For more demanding applications, look for a drill that comes with a second battery or purchase an additional one. Chargers can take several hours to fully recharge a battery, so bear that in mind when planning your work schedule. If you need a faster recharge, look for a "smart" charger. Smart chargers work quickly and often reduce charge as the battery becomes full to avoid overcharging to extend the life of the battery. Look for nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) and lithium-ion batteries, as they are slightly smaller and tend to have a longer run time.
Charge a second battery as you work to avoid mid-job downtime Smart chargers use fans to reduce heat and decrease recharging time NiMH batteries are easier and less hazardous to dispose of than other types
First thing when you look at a good cordless drill will be Volts of the the battery pack. To simplify it - the more Volts your cordless drill has - the faster the motor spins - the more torque you will get. Unfortunately - the more volts your cordless drills have - the heavier they get (if you ever worked with a 18 Volt drill over a longer period of time - you will know what I am talking about).
Similar important as the Volts of your battery are the Ampere. Measured in Ah (Ampere per hour) it gives you an idea of how long a battery will last. You can have a 12 Volts battery with 1.8 Ah and with 2.4 Ah. Obviously both batteries should give you the same power initially, but the 2.4 Ah will last 30% longer. Important if you use cordless drills for heavy duty work.
Looking at Volts and Ampere, you should also understand the basic types of battery packs currently available on the market. The (older) Standard Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) battery packs are cheaper but do not give you much Ah as the newer Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs. The Ni-MH packs also give you an additional advantage in recharging, as the do not loose power after being recharged many many times (no-memory effect). Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs are usually more expensive, but definitely worth it's money.
As batteries changed improved over the past years most manufacturers offer a wide range of power packs. Finding the right Dewalt or Makita batteries can therefore sometimes be a bit of a challenge.
The higher the voltage, the more power (9.6-28V) and weight (3-10 lb) the drill will posess. Most household jobs will be fine with a 13.2 volt or 14.4 volt battery, but an 18 volt couldn't hurt. Most 9.6V drills might be sufficient for home jobs, but may lack the needed torque you find in a 14.4V drill -- which is usually not significantly more in price. Go with at least a 14.4V. For tough jobs and doing masonry, a more powerful 24 or 28 volt battery is recommended.
Rechargeable drill batteries should last you about five years, or roughly 500 charges, though with frequent use you might need to replace it sooner. They can be pricey ($50-$80) so if your drill was only $100 or less, you might want to consider just buying a brand new drill. If you have a higher end drill, it's probably more economical to buy a replacement battery.
DRILL SHAPES
Pistol Grip Drills
Are held like a pistol. Doesn't that feel powerful?
T-Handle Drills
Are most popular. Shaped like a T for best balance.
Right Angle Drills
Are barrel-less. The bit extends from the base at a right angle.
TORQUE
Drill price reflects a number of features, including torque. Torque, which is measured in foot-pounds, is the drill's maximum amount of turning force. Some drills have an adjustable clutch with different torque settings for different applications.
Common features you'll want in a cordless or corded drill are electric brakes, which stops the drill chuck as soon as you release the trigger, and keyless chucks.
OTHER FEATURES TO LOOK OUT FOR
Keyless Chuck: The chuck holds the drill bit in place, and keyless chucks allow you to conveniently change bits without having to use a separate key to unlock and replace.Auxiliary Handle: Drills with side handles provide greater control and two-handed operation. These auxiliary handles rotate, enabling you to find the ideal angle and position from which to work.Multiple Clutch Settings: Cordless drills often feature a clutch adjustment ring, which may have anywhere from two to twenty-four settings. Once you know the depth and torque needed on a particular surface, set the clutch accordingly to ensure consistent results and reduce the instance of wrist snap. Electronic Brake: This feature causes the drill to stop immediately when you stop squeezing the trigger, preventing you from overdriving or stripping screws. Variable Speed and Reversing: Many drills offer multiple speed settings, allowing you to choose the right one for the job at hand, and most have a reverse feature that allows you to remove screws and other fasteners. Heat Shields and Cooling Fans: These features protect the drill from overheating, enabling longer, more efficient periods of use.
Power Drills guide is politely presented by Power Tools easiest choice service
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Oleg_Cheban
Standard Drills
Hammer Drills
Screw Guns II. Cordless drills
Cord or Cordless? Pros and Cons
The main features
Power and Battery III. Drill Shapes IV. Variable speed V. Torque VI. Other features to look out for VII. Power rating VIII. Hammer action IX. Chuck type
TYPES
Standard Drills
Standard electric rotary drills designed for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines will cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drills have a chuck which will only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.
Hammer Drills
The hammer drill is similar to a standard electric drill, with the exception that it is provided with a hammer action for drilling masonry. The hammer action may be engaged or disengaged as required.
The hammer action is cheap but delicate. It uses two cam plates to make the chuck accelerate towards the work. However because of the relative masses of the chuck+bit and the remainder of the drill the energy transfer is inefficient and will fail to penetrate harder materials and vibrates the operators hand. The cams wear quickly.
Compare this to a rotary/pneumatic hammer drill where just the bit is accelerated to the work. They have relatively little vibration and penetrate most building materials. It feels as though the work is sucking the bit inwards.
Large cam hammer drills, especially transverse motor, are crude in their action. The energy delivered in each stroke is highly variable. The cheaper drill will smash its way through the work and vibrate the surroundings, this can cause lots of collateral damage. A good SDS drill will gently pulverize the work material just in front of the bit and glide into the hole without any "fuss".
However there is a big difference in cost. In the UK typically £12-40 for a cam hammer and £100 up for a rotary/pneumatic. For light DIY use they are fine.
Screw Guns
These Electric Screwdrivers are made specifically for applying screws and hexagon headed Tek Screw to plasterboard and metal cladding. The drywall screws are designed purely for plasterboard fixing. The electric screwdriver uses a specially designed chuck to self guide the specifically designed fixings that feature widely spaced threads to ensure good grip. This is achieved by the unique collar on this type of electric screwdriver.
Some electric screwdrivers are able to use Collated Screws which provides auto-loading of screws which are loaded into the tool on a strip which is then fed onto the bit.
Drill press
A drill press (also known as pedestal drill, pillar drill, or bench drill) is a fixed style of drill that may be mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The head has a set of handles (usually 3) radiating from a central hub that, when turned, move the spindle and chuck vertically, parallel to the axis of the column. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and re-clamp the table in position. The table may also be offset from the spindle's axis and in some cases rotated to a position perpendicular to the column. The size of a drill press is typically measured in terms of swing. Swing is defined as twice the throat distance, which is the distance from the center of the spindle to the closest edge of the pillar. For example, a 16-inch drill press will have an 8-inch throat distance.
A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:
less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.
the table allows a vise or clamp to position and lock the work in place making the operation secure. the angle of the spindle is fixed in relation to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and repetitively.
Speed change is achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement. Some drill presses add a third stepped pulley to increase the speed range. Modern drill presses can, however, use a variable-speed motor in conjunction with the stepped-pulley system; a few older drill presses, on the other hand, have a sort of traction-based continuously variable transmission for wide ranges of chuck speeds instead, which can be changed while the machine is running.
CORDLESS DRILLS
A cordless drill is a type of electric drill which uses rechargeable batteries. These drills are available with similar features to an AC mains-powered drill. They are available in the hammer drill configuration and most also have a clutch setting which allows them to be used for driving screws.
For continuous use, a worker will have one or more spare battery packs charging while drilling, so that he or she can quickly swap them, instead of having to wait several hours during recharges.
Early cordless drills started with interchangeable 7.2V battery packs, and over the years the battery voltage has been increased to 18V, and higher, allowing these tools to produce as much torque as many mains-powered drills. The drawback of most current models is the use of nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, which develop a memory effect or internal short circuits due to dendrite growth, severely limiting their useful life, and posing a hazardous materials disposal problem. Drill manufacturers are now introducing lithium ion batteries, most notably DEWALT.
The main advantages are lack of memory effect and very short charging time. Instead of charging a tool for an hour to get 20 minutes of use, 20 minutes of charge can run the tool for an hour. Lithium-ion batteries also have a constant discharge rate. The power output remains constant until the battery is depleted, something that nickel-cadmium batteries also lack, and which makes the tool much more versatile. Lithium-ion batteries also hold a charge for a significantly longer time than nickel-cadmium batteries, about 2 years if not used, vs. around 4 months for a nickel-cadmium battery.
CORD OR CORDLESS. Pros and ConsI. Corded Drills
Pack the most power
Most durable
Can handle mixing mud, boring holes, and drilling concrete
Usually unnecessary for most homeowners II. Cordless Power Drills
Easily transported and used
Less power and run time restricted by battery life
Recharging may take several hours
Higher voltage means more power, but also more weight
Newer technology has improved cordless drills; most are now strong enough for many tasks previously out of their league Cordless drill:
Lightweight, easy to handle and comfortable to use
Safer to work with as there's no trailing cord
More versatile - can access more tricky to get to places and can be used anywhere, there's no restriction on distance or electricity supply
Batteries can be interchanged for continuous power
Some models double up as an electric screwdriver
A 'quick charge' feature is handy if you've forgotten to charge it in advance
Not as much power as a corded model and has limited battery life
You need to remember to charge the battery before use
Some are not capable of drilling through masonryCorded drill:
More power and torque
Always ready to use and provides continuous power
May have extra features not available on a cordless model
Models tend to be heavier than cordless models
The cord can be restrictive and intrusive
You're reliant on a nearby electricity socket
THE MAIN FEATURES
Top 10 points to look for:
Speed-range switch, generally 2 ratios, both high and low, normally selected by changing mechanical gearing. High is for drilling applications whilst low range is reserved for driving screws. Look out for the widest range between the two settingsLook for a reliable motor, some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some bosch models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are uning your cordless drill on a daily basis. Forward/reverse switch: This should be easy to operate with either your thumb or trigger finger - again this is a standard feature but look for one which is easy to operate. Hand grip: Texture and contoured, should aid your grip, some Porter and Cable cordless drills have padded grips which you can choose to match your hand size - useful after an 8 hour shift. Voltage: a higher voltage means more drilling power but it can also mean more weight - don't buy a drill you won't need, 12 volt drills are powerful enough for most DIY users, bigger models just weigh more so think carefully about what you will be using the drill for. Batteries: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries tend to be better because they deliver more charge and last longer.Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping the drill, Variable speed offers the greatest control. Chuck jaws: The maximum chuck capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Although some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits, these have a 1/2inch chuck. Keyless chuck: Virtually a standard fitting today, hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws. The keyless chuck can grip any screwdriver bit or drill bit securely. Clutch: Setting the clutch gives you greater control of the depth to which screws are driven.
POWER AND BATTERY
Batteries: A cordless drill is only as good as its battery. Make sure the battery has enough run time to help you power through all your tasks. For more demanding applications, look for a drill that comes with a second battery or purchase an additional one. Chargers can take several hours to fully recharge a battery, so bear that in mind when planning your work schedule. If you need a faster recharge, look for a "smart" charger. Smart chargers work quickly and often reduce charge as the battery becomes full to avoid overcharging to extend the life of the battery. Look for nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) and lithium-ion batteries, as they are slightly smaller and tend to have a longer run time.
Charge a second battery as you work to avoid mid-job downtime Smart chargers use fans to reduce heat and decrease recharging time NiMH batteries are easier and less hazardous to dispose of than other types
First thing when you look at a good cordless drill will be Volts of the the battery pack. To simplify it - the more Volts your cordless drill has - the faster the motor spins - the more torque you will get. Unfortunately - the more volts your cordless drills have - the heavier they get (if you ever worked with a 18 Volt drill over a longer period of time - you will know what I am talking about).
Similar important as the Volts of your battery are the Ampere. Measured in Ah (Ampere per hour) it gives you an idea of how long a battery will last. You can have a 12 Volts battery with 1.8 Ah and with 2.4 Ah. Obviously both batteries should give you the same power initially, but the 2.4 Ah will last 30% longer. Important if you use cordless drills for heavy duty work.
Looking at Volts and Ampere, you should also understand the basic types of battery packs currently available on the market. The (older) Standard Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) battery packs are cheaper but do not give you much Ah as the newer Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs. The Ni-MH packs also give you an additional advantage in recharging, as the do not loose power after being recharged many many times (no-memory effect). Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs are usually more expensive, but definitely worth it's money.
As batteries changed improved over the past years most manufacturers offer a wide range of power packs. Finding the right Dewalt or Makita batteries can therefore sometimes be a bit of a challenge.
The higher the voltage, the more power (9.6-28V) and weight (3-10 lb) the drill will posess. Most household jobs will be fine with a 13.2 volt or 14.4 volt battery, but an 18 volt couldn't hurt. Most 9.6V drills might be sufficient for home jobs, but may lack the needed torque you find in a 14.4V drill -- which is usually not significantly more in price. Go with at least a 14.4V. For tough jobs and doing masonry, a more powerful 24 or 28 volt battery is recommended.
Rechargeable drill batteries should last you about five years, or roughly 500 charges, though with frequent use you might need to replace it sooner. They can be pricey ($50-$80) so if your drill was only $100 or less, you might want to consider just buying a brand new drill. If you have a higher end drill, it's probably more economical to buy a replacement battery.
DRILL SHAPES
Pistol Grip Drills
Are held like a pistol. Doesn't that feel powerful?
T-Handle Drills
Are most popular. Shaped like a T for best balance.
Right Angle Drills
Are barrel-less. The bit extends from the base at a right angle.
TORQUE
Drill price reflects a number of features, including torque. Torque, which is measured in foot-pounds, is the drill's maximum amount of turning force. Some drills have an adjustable clutch with different torque settings for different applications.
Common features you'll want in a cordless or corded drill are electric brakes, which stops the drill chuck as soon as you release the trigger, and keyless chucks.
OTHER FEATURES TO LOOK OUT FOR
Keyless Chuck: The chuck holds the drill bit in place, and keyless chucks allow you to conveniently change bits without having to use a separate key to unlock and replace.Auxiliary Handle: Drills with side handles provide greater control and two-handed operation. These auxiliary handles rotate, enabling you to find the ideal angle and position from which to work.Multiple Clutch Settings: Cordless drills often feature a clutch adjustment ring, which may have anywhere from two to twenty-four settings. Once you know the depth and torque needed on a particular surface, set the clutch accordingly to ensure consistent results and reduce the instance of wrist snap. Electronic Brake: This feature causes the drill to stop immediately when you stop squeezing the trigger, preventing you from overdriving or stripping screws. Variable Speed and Reversing: Many drills offer multiple speed settings, allowing you to choose the right one for the job at hand, and most have a reverse feature that allows you to remove screws and other fasteners. Heat Shields and Cooling Fans: These features protect the drill from overheating, enabling longer, more efficient periods of use.
Power Drills guide is politely presented by Power Tools easiest choice service
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Oleg_Cheban
Taking Care of your AC
This time of year I thought we need to talk about our AC:
A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls.
A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components
(THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls.
A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components
(THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
How To: DryWall
Keep in mind that dry walling looks a lot easier then it is, however, you can get into the hang of it when you work closely next to a professional. Perhaps it is time to ask your friend for that favor he owes you. You will want to get all the tools before you start dry walling. You will need to have things like a putty trail, tray, sandpapers, joint putty, a scraper, a hammer, paint, paint thinner, plaster, and dry wall tape. You will need to look at the area that you wish to dry wall and figure out exactly what it is that you would like to do. A lot of people will use the putty to place the sheets together and feel the cracks, but then some like to use tape. You could use them both together to get the best finish. Keep in mind that if you have never hung dry wall before, that it may be best to have someone with you who is experienced.
Dry walling a home is easier said than done; however, it is never as difficult as some lead you to believe. To getting your start in dry walling you should follow a few very easy steps. What kind of tools are you going to need? You will need a Putty Trial, Tray, sandpaper, and joint putty, scraper, hammer, paint, thinner, patches, plaster, and a few other items to finish the task. Of course, it depends on the size of the area as to what exact tools and materials are needed.
You should never start a drywall project until you have prepared the area. This means that you may have to wash the wall so that no dust gets trapped into the dry wall. You will also want to keep in mind that you may have to smooth or even out the wall, incase the paneling has warped.
Once you have hung your dry wall, you will need to get ready to paint, however, you will need to cover up the many drywall nails that you have used. You will find that you may even need to sand the dry wall in some areas so that it looks spotless. You will want to consider doing everything you can to make the walls look natural.
As for the paint you can go to any of the local hardware stores and paint the walls whatever it is that you desire. Keep in mind that newly hung drywall will need a coat or two of primer. This is because the paper on the dry wall will soak up the paint. You will want to make sure that you use the primary or you will be wasting a lot of paint.
Dry walling is not hard, but you have to know what you are doing in order for it to look right.
Concentrating recent findings in price of drywall, the reviewer published at large for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You might discover his articles on drywall prices at insidewoodworking.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
Dry walling a home is easier said than done; however, it is never as difficult as some lead you to believe. To getting your start in dry walling you should follow a few very easy steps. What kind of tools are you going to need? You will need a Putty Trial, Tray, sandpaper, and joint putty, scraper, hammer, paint, thinner, patches, plaster, and a few other items to finish the task. Of course, it depends on the size of the area as to what exact tools and materials are needed.
You should never start a drywall project until you have prepared the area. This means that you may have to wash the wall so that no dust gets trapped into the dry wall. You will also want to keep in mind that you may have to smooth or even out the wall, incase the paneling has warped.
Once you have hung your dry wall, you will need to get ready to paint, however, you will need to cover up the many drywall nails that you have used. You will find that you may even need to sand the dry wall in some areas so that it looks spotless. You will want to consider doing everything you can to make the walls look natural.
As for the paint you can go to any of the local hardware stores and paint the walls whatever it is that you desire. Keep in mind that newly hung drywall will need a coat or two of primer. This is because the paper on the dry wall will soak up the paint. You will want to make sure that you use the primary or you will be wasting a lot of paint.
Dry walling is not hard, but you have to know what you are doing in order for it to look right.
Concentrating recent findings in price of drywall, the reviewer published at large for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You might discover his articles on drywall prices at insidewoodworking.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken
How To: WallPaper
Removing wallpaper can be one of the most frustrating DIY projects. However with this guide you will be able to keep your sanity and remove wallpaper more efficiently. Don't miss out on these ideas!
Materials Needed:
Screwdriver
Wallpaper Perforating Tool
Spray Bottle for Wallpaper Solution
Wallpaper Solution
Garbage Bags
Sponge
Painters Tape
Sand Paper
Safety Glasses and Breathing Mask
Prep of the wall - Turn off the power breaker, and then remove all the switch and outlet covers. Once those are removed you can apply blue painters tape to the baseboards and outlets this can help protect your baseboard and outlets from scratches. Although tape is not required it can be beneficial to use, especially if you are going to be painting afterword.
You're First Cut - You first need to make a few cuts into the wallpaper. This can be done with a perforation tool; one can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you don't apply so much pressure that it cuts into the drywall.
Wallpaper Solution - Now you will spray or sponge on a wallpaper removal. You can purchase chemical concoctions for wallpaper removal from any home improvement store that will accomplish this. However the same effect can be had without losing 8 bucks, get a spray bottle and mix a cup of vinegar to every gallon of water. Make sure you mix it with as hot as you can stand water. This will do essentially the same thing. If your solution gets cold it will not be as effective, so you may want to remix so you have hot water in your solution. You can also use fabric softener to remove stubborn wallpaper.
Peeling the Wallpaper - You will now wait about 10 minutes for the solution to soak into the wallpaper. Once soaked you can begin removing the wallpaper. First peel of as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. You will want to pull away the wallpaper at about a 45 degree angle. Once you have peeled off as much as you can spray your solution on the wallpaper again. Let the solution soak for a few minutes; then begin scraping of the wallpaper. When scraping off the wallpaper you will want to use a 3 inch scraper. Use a plastic scraper instead of metal; metal scrapers are more probe to leaving dents and dings. When you are scraping make sure you don't scrape too hard, otherwise you may have to repair damage you caused.
Stubborn Piece of Wallpaper - One of the worst things about wallpaper removal is that stubborn little piece of wallpaper that will not come off. For those stubborn pieces you can get a piece of sandpaper and actually sand it off. The sandpaper can also be used to remove stubborn glue from the wall. You can hand sand or use a sander to clean off those stubborn pieces. If you do sand the wall you will want to make sure you are wearing a mask, wearing safety glasses and are working in a ventilated area.
Wash the Wall - Once you have removed the wallpaper make sure you wet down and wash the walls with fresh water. Use a sponge to clean off any residue that is still on the wall. It is important you wash the walls a few times so that there are no problems with residue when you paint or do something to the wall.
If you need more DIY tips visit us at http://www.protoolbelts.com/home.php
Materials Needed:
Screwdriver
Wallpaper Perforating Tool
Spray Bottle for Wallpaper Solution
Wallpaper Solution
Garbage Bags
Sponge
Painters Tape
Sand Paper
Safety Glasses and Breathing Mask
Prep of the wall - Turn off the power breaker, and then remove all the switch and outlet covers. Once those are removed you can apply blue painters tape to the baseboards and outlets this can help protect your baseboard and outlets from scratches. Although tape is not required it can be beneficial to use, especially if you are going to be painting afterword.
You're First Cut - You first need to make a few cuts into the wallpaper. This can be done with a perforation tool; one can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you don't apply so much pressure that it cuts into the drywall.
Wallpaper Solution - Now you will spray or sponge on a wallpaper removal. You can purchase chemical concoctions for wallpaper removal from any home improvement store that will accomplish this. However the same effect can be had without losing 8 bucks, get a spray bottle and mix a cup of vinegar to every gallon of water. Make sure you mix it with as hot as you can stand water. This will do essentially the same thing. If your solution gets cold it will not be as effective, so you may want to remix so you have hot water in your solution. You can also use fabric softener to remove stubborn wallpaper.
Peeling the Wallpaper - You will now wait about 10 minutes for the solution to soak into the wallpaper. Once soaked you can begin removing the wallpaper. First peel of as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. You will want to pull away the wallpaper at about a 45 degree angle. Once you have peeled off as much as you can spray your solution on the wallpaper again. Let the solution soak for a few minutes; then begin scraping of the wallpaper. When scraping off the wallpaper you will want to use a 3 inch scraper. Use a plastic scraper instead of metal; metal scrapers are more probe to leaving dents and dings. When you are scraping make sure you don't scrape too hard, otherwise you may have to repair damage you caused.
Stubborn Piece of Wallpaper - One of the worst things about wallpaper removal is that stubborn little piece of wallpaper that will not come off. For those stubborn pieces you can get a piece of sandpaper and actually sand it off. The sandpaper can also be used to remove stubborn glue from the wall. You can hand sand or use a sander to clean off those stubborn pieces. If you do sand the wall you will want to make sure you are wearing a mask, wearing safety glasses and are working in a ventilated area.
Wash the Wall - Once you have removed the wallpaper make sure you wet down and wash the walls with fresh water. Use a sponge to clean off any residue that is still on the wall. It is important you wash the walls a few times so that there are no problems with residue when you paint or do something to the wall.
If you need more DIY tips visit us at http://www.protoolbelts.com/home.php
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