Here is some great advice on a common installation:
Whether it's because your door is old and no longer works with your décor, or you want something a little more flashy in the space, trading out doors and door hinges is not too difficult of a job.
Don't think you can do it? Think you need a lot of tools to get the job done? Think again. All you need is a few shims, or thin pieces of wood that can be slipped under the door to hold it at the right height, nails or an electric screwdriver and the door and door hinges.
Here are the steps for taking on the installation process.
Selecting the what you need is easy. Measure the old door that you are taking out of this space and write those measurements down. When it comes to selecting door hinges, consider what this door will be asked to do. If the door is going to get a lot of use you may want to use three 3-inch door hinges to make sure it's sturdy and will hold in place. This is especially the case if it is an exterior door. One way to tell what kind of door hinges to choose is to look at what was being used on the door you are removing.
The easy way to install the door and door hinges is to install the new door hinges where the old ones were. This only works if you selected the same size door hinges as you previously had on the door with proper hole-spacing. If not, you may have to use some wood putty to fill the old holes, and then put the new hinges wherever you would like.
When deciding where the door hinges will go remember, doors are supposed to open into the room, they are also traditionally expected to open to a wall, not to flap in the open area of the room.
If you have someone handy, you may want to bring them into play at this time. Line up the door where you think it should be placed, using shims to balance it off the ground enough that it will open and close. You should put the first screw in at this point, at the top of the door. Make sure someone is holding up the weight of the door (or keep it on shims) so the weight doesn't pull that screw out.
Close the door and make sure it shuts properly. It should be hitting the strike plate evenly. If not, adjust the shim placement until you have even amounts of space all the way around and the door seems to be evenly set. Immediately put a screw in the bottom door hinges. This will make sure you have the door hinges lined up in a manner that will allow the door to open and close correctly.
With this screw in, check one more time to make sure it's lined up properly, then install the remaining screws in the door hinges and the job is done.
Jennifer Akre, the author of this article, is an owner of different niche sites that offer clients and customer not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating their indoor and outdoor living space. Whether you want to redecorate your living room or create the ultimate outdoor oasis, there is a ton of helpful advice to take advantage of. Today, she shares her insight when purchasing lavish cabinet hinges, luxurious door hinges, and useful hinges
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
One of the many advantages of Doing It Yourself!
Here's a article that I came across that I thought would get the inner "Mr. Fix It" going.http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Anthony_Gregory It kind of somes up what I was saying.
Installing a Recessed Medicine Cabinet
They say that your bathroom is one of the most popular improvements that people make to their homes ,so I wanted to start here. Putting in a Medicine Cabinet is a fairly straightforward & simple project that will add immediate value to your bathroom.First, make a rough measurement and mark the space where the cabinet will go. The recommended height from the bottom edge of the mirror to the floor is 40 inches. Measure the width of your cabinet and mark the center point in the wall. Before you begin, locate the studs in the wall. You can do this with a stud finder, which is the easiest way, or by tapping on the wall with a hammer and listening for hollow versus solid sounds. The studs will usually be on 16-inch centers for 2x4s and on 24-inch centers for 2x6s. A serviceable medicine cabinet will not fit between studs on 16-inch centers, so don’t plan on installation without some partial stud removal and additional framing. Note: Narrow cabinets are available, but the size may not be practical for everyday use. Before you start cutting into the wall, turn off the electricity.
If you have a light overhead, then wiring will be located somewhere within the cutout section. You may wish to replace the current light with a lighted cabinet. In that case, simply attach existing wires following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Carefully cut a 6-inch “viewing hole” in your marked cutout to check for electrical wires and plumbing. If you have found a stud that is in the way, you will need to straddle it with your viewing hole. You can stick your hand through and feel around for obstructions that are out of range of a flashlight. There is no easy solution to moving plumbing. In this case, you may want to adjust the mounting location to be clear of the obstacles or consider a wall-mounted cabinet. You also need to make sure the space is deep enough for your cabinet. Standard depths for inset cabinets are 3 ½ inches or 4 inches. Removing a stud to make room for the cabinet may make a much larger hole than you had planned. Additionally, if you are removing any light fixtures above the space, consider taking the wall out in a strip up to the ceiling Replacing drywall in a larger area may be easier and the tapelines will look cleaner after the job is finished. Once the framing is complete, you can tape, plaster, and paint
Make sure that the stud section you remove is not part of a load-bearing wall. If the wall is part of an adjoining room,
be sure that the stud does not attach to anything from the other side. When removing a stud section, you can use a handsaw but a reciprocating saw will make the job much easier.
If the cabinet is designed for either wall mounting or as an inset, you will probably have to mark and drill mounting holes in the sides. Partially pre-drill holes in the cripple studs; the finishing screws will drive in without much effort. Even if your cabinet comes pre-drilled for mounting, this step will make your job easier.
If you are installing a lighted cabinet, you will now attach the electrical.
Once your cabinet is set into the space, make sure it is level. At this point, you may need to add shims. Screw the sides of the cabinet into the framed area. Mount the door, or doors, per the manufacturer’s instructions and you are finished. As always make sure to carefully read all the instructions that came with your cabinet. On my difficulty meter between 1&10 I would give this a 6. Good luck, email me with any questions.
If you have a light overhead, then wiring will be located somewhere within the cutout section. You may wish to replace the current light with a lighted cabinet. In that case, simply attach existing wires following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Carefully cut a 6-inch “viewing hole” in your marked cutout to check for electrical wires and plumbing. If you have found a stud that is in the way, you will need to straddle it with your viewing hole. You can stick your hand through and feel around for obstructions that are out of range of a flashlight. There is no easy solution to moving plumbing. In this case, you may want to adjust the mounting location to be clear of the obstacles or consider a wall-mounted cabinet. You also need to make sure the space is deep enough for your cabinet. Standard depths for inset cabinets are 3 ½ inches or 4 inches. Removing a stud to make room for the cabinet may make a much larger hole than you had planned. Additionally, if you are removing any light fixtures above the space, consider taking the wall out in a strip up to the ceiling Replacing drywall in a larger area may be easier and the tapelines will look cleaner after the job is finished. Once the framing is complete, you can tape, plaster, and paint
Make sure that the stud section you remove is not part of a load-bearing wall. If the wall is part of an adjoining room,
be sure that the stud does not attach to anything from the other side. When removing a stud section, you can use a handsaw but a reciprocating saw will make the job much easier.
If the cabinet is designed for either wall mounting or as an inset, you will probably have to mark and drill mounting holes in the sides. Partially pre-drill holes in the cripple studs; the finishing screws will drive in without much effort. Even if your cabinet comes pre-drilled for mounting, this step will make your job easier.
If you are installing a lighted cabinet, you will now attach the electrical.
Once your cabinet is set into the space, make sure it is level. At this point, you may need to add shims. Screw the sides of the cabinet into the framed area. Mount the door, or doors, per the manufacturer’s instructions and you are finished. As always make sure to carefully read all the instructions that came with your cabinet. On my difficulty meter between 1&10 I would give this a 6. Good luck, email me with any questions.
Become a "Mr. FIXIT"
Hi There,
Thanks for checking out my blog. When your done reading my many articles(and I mean LOTS & LOTS!) you will officially become a" TOOL BELT HERO", I've been wanting to write this kind of blog for a long time but I just could'nt find the time ,so I finally made myself sit down and do it! Every day people spend Thousands & Thousands of dollars on Home Repairs and their really not sure if their getting ripped off or not. I've heard complaints from many of my friends as well as colleagues about the ridiculous amount of money that they have had to pay just in Labor Costs alone, so I was encouraged by them as well as others to write this blog. I truly believe that everyone has a little "Mr Fix It" in them, so even if you"ve never picked up a hammer in your life or never drove a screw, you will learn how to Save A Lot of MONEY and have alot of fun knowing that you did it yourself! Then you too will be able to tell to your friends that you are a "TOOL BELT HERO"
Thanks for checking out my blog. When your done reading my many articles(and I mean LOTS & LOTS!) you will officially become a" TOOL BELT HERO", I've been wanting to write this kind of blog for a long time but I just could'nt find the time ,so I finally made myself sit down and do it! Every day people spend Thousands & Thousands of dollars on Home Repairs and their really not sure if their getting ripped off or not. I've heard complaints from many of my friends as well as colleagues about the ridiculous amount of money that they have had to pay just in Labor Costs alone, so I was encouraged by them as well as others to write this blog. I truly believe that everyone has a little "Mr Fix It" in them, so even if you"ve never picked up a hammer in your life or never drove a screw, you will learn how to Save A Lot of MONEY and have alot of fun knowing that you did it yourself! Then you too will be able to tell to your friends that you are a "TOOL BELT HERO"
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