A window unit, commonly called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a single room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls. A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.
Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.
During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. Always keep your unit in the upright position to prevent oil and refrigerant migration.
Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could result in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.
Maintaining Basic Components (THESE PROCEDURES SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN)
The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (BE SURE TO REFER TO YOUR OWNER'S GUIDE FOR SPECIFICS ON YOUR UNIT):
Filter
Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.
Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry completely before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.
Power Cord
If your air conditioner stops working and you suspect that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.
Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.
Evaporator and Condenser Coils
Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils become bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.
Switch
The selector switch, behind the control panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, remove the control panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.
Thermostat
The thermostat is also located behind the control panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:
1) Remove the grille and control panel. There will be a temperature sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil
2) Carefully remove the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.
3) Check the thermostat with the VOM setting on the RX1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the temperature control to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
Drain Ports
The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.
Drain ports can become dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, usually through the bottom of the front grille. To prevent clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.
Fan
If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is usually caused by loose or dirty fan blades. Follow these steps to repair the fan:
1) Locate the fan inside the cabinet.
2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.
3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.
4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.
5) If you suspect a faulty motor, test with the VOM on the RX1 scale. Connect VOM probes to disconnected terminal wires.
If the meter reads between 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.
To remove the fan motor, remove the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not attempt to remove the motor. Call a professional.
If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a professional service person should be called.
By doing simple maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly extend the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner.
Mike Culletto
Product Specialist
H-Mac Systems, Inc
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Culletto
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Alternative Heating Fuel Cost Comparision
I've just finished updating the Fuel Comparison Chart at my alternative heating site, and once again the least expensive fuel to heat with is corn. Although corn reached a high of $7.60 a bushel at the end of June, it has since retreated to $6.31/bushel. This works out to $14.06 per 1 Mil Btu of heat. (The cost to produce 1 Million Btu of heat provides an "apples to apples" method for comparing fuel prices).
Compared to heating oil at $4.71/gal, or $33.41 per 1 Mil Btu, corn is almost 60% cheaper. This is good news if you heat your home with corn AND live in the Corn Belt. For the rest of us who live in the northeast or northwest, wood and wood pellets are still the best option.
A cord of seasoned hardwood for the '08 - '09 heating season now costs around $295, or $17.90 per 1 Mil Btu. This is roughly half the cost of fuel oil for an equal amount of heat. If you want to save even more by seasoning your own hardwood, green wood usually sells for $50 less per cord than seasoned.
The price for a ton of wood pellets has also risen about 8% for the upcoming heating season. Last year's $249/ton price is now $269, or $16.81 per Mil Btu. Despite the increase, the cost of heating with wood pellets remains 50% below the cost of oil.
So far this week, the price of crude has dropped by $15 a barrel and could possibly drop further. This doesn't necessarily indicate a future drop in the cost of wood or wood pellets. Although the price of oil directly affects the overall cost of wood and wood pellets, the dealers in these alternative fuels generally quote a price for the season to accommodate advance orders.
Improve your home with timely energy saving information from Alternative-Heating-Info.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sam_Streubel
Compared to heating oil at $4.71/gal, or $33.41 per 1 Mil Btu, corn is almost 60% cheaper. This is good news if you heat your home with corn AND live in the Corn Belt. For the rest of us who live in the northeast or northwest, wood and wood pellets are still the best option.
A cord of seasoned hardwood for the '08 - '09 heating season now costs around $295, or $17.90 per 1 Mil Btu. This is roughly half the cost of fuel oil for an equal amount of heat. If you want to save even more by seasoning your own hardwood, green wood usually sells for $50 less per cord than seasoned.
The price for a ton of wood pellets has also risen about 8% for the upcoming heating season. Last year's $249/ton price is now $269, or $16.81 per Mil Btu. Despite the increase, the cost of heating with wood pellets remains 50% below the cost of oil.
So far this week, the price of crude has dropped by $15 a barrel and could possibly drop further. This doesn't necessarily indicate a future drop in the cost of wood or wood pellets. Although the price of oil directly affects the overall cost of wood and wood pellets, the dealers in these alternative fuels generally quote a price for the season to accommodate advance orders.
Improve your home with timely energy saving information from Alternative-Heating-Info.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sam_Streubel
Choosing the Best light bulb for Recessed Can Lighting
Choosing the correct light bulb for recessed can lighting can be a daunting task. If you aren't familiar with light bulbs and all the different types it's hard to know where to start. Most folks simply replace burnt out bulbs with what they pull out. Others go to the local hardware store and just buy what "looks" right on the shelf. With a simple analysis, you can choose for yourself what the best light bulb for your application is by splitting out the choices that need to be made.
Obviously, the easiest way to replace light bulbs in your recessed can lights is to pull out the old one and simply purchase that same bulb. If you don't have that as an option, follow the below steps to choose the correct light bulb.
Key Abbreviations to Understand:I'm going to first outline the main letters that you'll see on your current bulb or in your can fixture and what they mean. 40W (or any number followed by a W) = 40 Watt; R16 or BR16 or PAR20 (There are many of these. Most start with a letter or a few letters and are followed by a number) = these are bulb shapes; 120V or 130V (This may or may not be stipulated) = Indicates voltage.
List from Fixture:Your first step should be to look inside your can fixture. Most will have a sticker on it that will outline about a half a dozen of options that can be used in that specific fixture. I.E. 40W R16
Best Style for your Baffle, Lense or Reflector:Next, go to the website of the manufacturer that made your can fixture. The 3 major manufacturers are Cooper Halo Lighting (www.haloltg.com), Juno Lighting (www.junolighting.com) and Lithonia (www.lithonia.com). Around the edge of your can you will have what is known as a baffle, lense or reflector (trim). This is a separate piece you will find in your can. Each manufacturer will have their recommended light bulbs to use that will maximize the effectiveness of your particular baffle, lense or reflector. Find this under their "specifications" sheet attached to your particular attachment.
Decide if you want a Spot or Flood:Some light bulbs like Halogen PAR shaped light bulbs will come two ways: Spot lights or Flood lights. The progression goes from Spot to Flood to A19 which lights up in all directions. Most spots light an area up to 20 degrees in width. Most choose these if they want to light up art work or focus on a mantel or something similar. A flood generally goes from 25 degrees to 60 degrees in swath of light. Then an A19 lights up tan entire area. But not all fixtures are made to have A19 light bulbs in them permanently. In most cases, you'll want flood light bulbs.
What Color of Light do you want?If you are looking at Compact Fluorescents, you will sometimes have an option of color. And I don't mean pink vs. white. I mean the color of the light that is emitted. If your compact fluorescent says that the color temperature is 2700K, the light will be a soft white color. If it says that it is a 5000K, it will be more of a blue-ish white light.
Type of Light Bulb:The last thing you'll need to decide is the type of bulb you will want. The main types of light bulbs that people use are Incandescent, some sort of long life incandescent, halogen and compact fluorescent light bulbs. I'm not going to go into the differences in them all here as that is a whole different conversation. Regardless, many times you will have the option to use any of these types of light bulbs in your can fixture. I.E. A BR40 Incandescent is a similar bulb type as a BR40 halogen. The important thing to remember here is to not go over the wattage the your can fixture recommends. Using a light bulb with the wattage too high for the fixture could shorten the life of the light bulb and could even cause a fire in some of the older cans.
By asking yourself these questions before buying, you will eliminate the confusion this purchase can present. And you will be happier overall with your purchase and the look of your room or application.
Holly has over 10 years experience in the lighting industry. Want more information about lighting or light bulbs? Visit her website http://www.lightbulbmarket.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Holly_Eddins
Obviously, the easiest way to replace light bulbs in your recessed can lights is to pull out the old one and simply purchase that same bulb. If you don't have that as an option, follow the below steps to choose the correct light bulb.
Key Abbreviations to Understand:I'm going to first outline the main letters that you'll see on your current bulb or in your can fixture and what they mean. 40W (or any number followed by a W) = 40 Watt; R16 or BR16 or PAR20 (There are many of these. Most start with a letter or a few letters and are followed by a number) = these are bulb shapes; 120V or 130V (This may or may not be stipulated) = Indicates voltage.
List from Fixture:Your first step should be to look inside your can fixture. Most will have a sticker on it that will outline about a half a dozen of options that can be used in that specific fixture. I.E. 40W R16
Best Style for your Baffle, Lense or Reflector:Next, go to the website of the manufacturer that made your can fixture. The 3 major manufacturers are Cooper Halo Lighting (www.haloltg.com), Juno Lighting (www.junolighting.com) and Lithonia (www.lithonia.com). Around the edge of your can you will have what is known as a baffle, lense or reflector (trim). This is a separate piece you will find in your can. Each manufacturer will have their recommended light bulbs to use that will maximize the effectiveness of your particular baffle, lense or reflector. Find this under their "specifications" sheet attached to your particular attachment.
Decide if you want a Spot or Flood:Some light bulbs like Halogen PAR shaped light bulbs will come two ways: Spot lights or Flood lights. The progression goes from Spot to Flood to A19 which lights up in all directions. Most spots light an area up to 20 degrees in width. Most choose these if they want to light up art work or focus on a mantel or something similar. A flood generally goes from 25 degrees to 60 degrees in swath of light. Then an A19 lights up tan entire area. But not all fixtures are made to have A19 light bulbs in them permanently. In most cases, you'll want flood light bulbs.
What Color of Light do you want?If you are looking at Compact Fluorescents, you will sometimes have an option of color. And I don't mean pink vs. white. I mean the color of the light that is emitted. If your compact fluorescent says that the color temperature is 2700K, the light will be a soft white color. If it says that it is a 5000K, it will be more of a blue-ish white light.
Type of Light Bulb:The last thing you'll need to decide is the type of bulb you will want. The main types of light bulbs that people use are Incandescent, some sort of long life incandescent, halogen and compact fluorescent light bulbs. I'm not going to go into the differences in them all here as that is a whole different conversation. Regardless, many times you will have the option to use any of these types of light bulbs in your can fixture. I.E. A BR40 Incandescent is a similar bulb type as a BR40 halogen. The important thing to remember here is to not go over the wattage the your can fixture recommends. Using a light bulb with the wattage too high for the fixture could shorten the life of the light bulb and could even cause a fire in some of the older cans.
By asking yourself these questions before buying, you will eliminate the confusion this purchase can present. And you will be happier overall with your purchase and the look of your room or application.
Holly has over 10 years experience in the lighting industry. Want more information about lighting or light bulbs? Visit her website http://www.lightbulbmarket.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Holly_Eddins
Installing a New Crystal Chandelier(not as hard as you think)
We all know that normally installation of chandeliers is difficult. But if you know some easy tips to install it, you will find it more interesting and enjoyable. It may be a good way to start knowing your lighting fixture well. It is always known that crystal chandeliers can always offer you significant upgrade and will always going to be a great addition to a home. So, we all know that crystal chandelier can do wonders on our home that will eventually end up to be a great décor to our home. Always remember that in installing it the better way to approach it by reading the manual or asking for assistance you can never be too careful so I suggest be cautious as always and have fun doing it.
Note that for small rooms, a smaller crystal chandelier will suit more. It won't be so captivating but it will definitely enhance the looks of your room. You can choose larger size chandelier for bigger areas of your home such as living room. Hanging an immense crystal chandelier in your large living room can brighten up an elegant living area. Remember the crystal chandeliers are beautiful and heavy with sophisticated designs when compared to other illumination basics. The basic tips for hanging chandeliers are actually considering the amount of work that you will have to put out for crystal chandelier is high. You should always be careful on it and have it on a good side. Be sure that you can always give out your best and always to try to make sure that you are doing the right things to it.
Remember that the weight of the crystal chandelier is crucial before installation. If the weight of the crystal chandelier is more than your current illumination elements change the junction box in the ceiling. If it is less than the weight of the current illumination, you can continue using the same for installation. Always, make it sure that you have switched off the electricity before installing it. Always use a circuit tester to check the current flow. Remove the old illumination; make marks on the wires to spot how it was installed. Install the chandelier on the mounting strap and screw it in the junction box. Twist the wires from the chandelier and ceiling clockwise. Go through the instruction manual once again carefully. It will give you more details on effective and successful installation. But my advise will always be ask for help or assistance, remember that crystal chandelier is a delicate décor so you should be ready on it for serious care.
Jron Magcale
http://goldenageusa.com
Jron c. Magcale from Jump2Top - SEO Company
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jron_C._Magcale
Note that for small rooms, a smaller crystal chandelier will suit more. It won't be so captivating but it will definitely enhance the looks of your room. You can choose larger size chandelier for bigger areas of your home such as living room. Hanging an immense crystal chandelier in your large living room can brighten up an elegant living area. Remember the crystal chandeliers are beautiful and heavy with sophisticated designs when compared to other illumination basics. The basic tips for hanging chandeliers are actually considering the amount of work that you will have to put out for crystal chandelier is high. You should always be careful on it and have it on a good side. Be sure that you can always give out your best and always to try to make sure that you are doing the right things to it.
Remember that the weight of the crystal chandelier is crucial before installation. If the weight of the crystal chandelier is more than your current illumination elements change the junction box in the ceiling. If it is less than the weight of the current illumination, you can continue using the same for installation. Always, make it sure that you have switched off the electricity before installing it. Always use a circuit tester to check the current flow. Remove the old illumination; make marks on the wires to spot how it was installed. Install the chandelier on the mounting strap and screw it in the junction box. Twist the wires from the chandelier and ceiling clockwise. Go through the instruction manual once again carefully. It will give you more details on effective and successful installation. But my advise will always be ask for help or assistance, remember that crystal chandelier is a delicate décor so you should be ready on it for serious care.
Jron Magcale
http://goldenageusa.com
Jron c. Magcale from Jump2Top - SEO Company
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jron_C._Magcale
Friday, June 20, 2008
Patching Drywall
When Patching a hole in your Drywall , (depending how big it) is always use Drywall Tape. Make sure to cover the hole with Joint Compound first and then embed the tape in the compound. It will take 2 0r 3 applications before you sand & paint. If the hole is bigger (12"x 12" etc..) then you will have to make a Blow Out Patch. This requires that you place pieces of wood into the hole along the edges,screw them in place,then add a piece of drywall cut same size as the hole & screw that in place also. Then it's just a matter of taping & mudding the hole,sanding, then painting & your projects complete!
Monday, June 16, 2008
My AMAZON "How To" Store!
I am really happy to tell everyone that I've just opened a Amazon Book Store for the Mr. Fix-It's in all of you. This store is full of Great How-To Books that I've read and used many times and have given me a wealth of knowledge over the years. My store also has Great Prices on these books as well so you save $$$ while you gain the knowledge to do these Home Repairs yourself, so please visit my store and I know you won't be disappointed. Check it out at:
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
http://astore.amazon.com/howtofixeverything-20
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Building a Fence for Privacy
Living in the city has its advantages of course but you have to deal with neighbors. One great method to keep good relations with a neighbor is to have a fence between your yards when it comes to living in a tight neighborhood. This is true in most cases. However, there are times when you can have big problems by building a fence, and this was something I witnessed first hand. It wasn't my yard, as I was a renter, but it did affect my life because I lived in the house in question.
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
My proprietor decided that it was a good idea to build a fence between his property and the property of the guy who lived next to us. Even though Robert was a good person he always wanted to complain to our landlord about something. He was particular about his yard, and it seems that we just could not live up to his standards. My landlord thought that if he constructed a fence he couldn't see into the yard all of the time and he would bring an end to his complaining. The fence might have also given our family with some privacy. My brother liked to come by and use my yard to sunbathe and Robert always seemed to find urgent things to do in his back yard when this happened.
When it came down to it, building a fence became a huge ordeal. Even though Robert did never liked what was happening in our yard, he was not in favor of the building of the fence. Too bad for Robert, whether he wanted it or not the fence was going up. As I never really spent much time out there, it did not matter to me either way. The most important problems that Robert seemed to have with us was that we just mowed the lawn once a week, and at times we didn't use a weed-eater around the edges. Building a fence seemed like a sane idea to everyone but Robert.
My landlord brought in someone to go about building a fence for the property and Robert had a fit. He was persuaded that the fence would pass onto his property and would be going right through his tree. My proprietor asked got the property records and had the limits between the properties studied to be certain he will not build a fence on Robert's property. Robert fought every step and managed to delay things for quite some time. I don't even know what happened next since I moved out a few months after and left the region completely. If it wasn't such a long trip I would be tempted to go have a look and see if the fence ever was erected or if Robert had gotten his way.
Paul Cibra is an Internet enthusiast and really enjoys sharing his passion with you the reader. Discover more now about Home Improvements and regarding Building a Fence Tips at his website http://www.homeimprovementcenteronline.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Cibra
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